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So it's the forum's fault you can't fix the car. Interesting....

Luke: "I can't believe it" Yoda: "That is why you fail" Fuse is for the AC. And it should be 10 amps....

I'm confused. There is no heater fuse in the pax kick panel. And why would you tear everything out to trace wiring when there are diagrams to tell you that? Anyway, you may want to check the 40 amp heater CB to see if it needs resetting..

Right. Note I didn't say it had to be grounded at the ECU end but at one end only. It's just that when running replacement wires it's easier to ground at the ECU. Regardless, the ground ought to be on E1 rather than another point on the chassis so that the shielding and ECU share the same ground...

Sure, rub it in. Real men stand there and turn the dials ;)

How did Toyota do it? They grounded it at one end. The reason is what shaeff said. Factory wiring grounds the KS shielding to E1 (chassis ground) by way of Ground Point B at the intake manifold. If you "ever looked up TSRM on line to find out where the Knock sensor is originally grounded" you'd...

^ Say what? NE is the engine's rpm signal. Stands for (N)umber of (E)ngine revolutions. It's generated by the 24 toothed gear in the CPS/distributor...

What the Dubster said. A ball type (to maintain flow) in brass or stainless and having a teflon seal is best. Swagelok or Parker come to mind...

No instructions because of the market? A prop is the most highly stressed part on an airplane and if a blade fails the result is almost always a smoking hole. Trust me, it has instructions ;)

I was half joking but it is abrasion resistant. Probably overkill for this use though. Colin: Goes on just like normal paint but recommend you follow the instructions. Primer isn't needed but wouldn't hurt if the paint will be going over bare metal. Tempo also makes primers. Look on that...

Yes, prop as in aircraft. They're 1 part "epoxy" type paints similar to the appliance spray paints found in good hardware stores, which is another option I suppose, as would be marine paint. Tempo is one maker of such paints and gray is common: http://tinyurl.com/mtjzl7

duaxmachine. Why am I not surprised...

Prop paint. Very tough. Color choice is limited though ;)

The vacuum line to the FPR goes through the VSV. Either remove the VSV and connect the hoses together or run a new one from the FPR to anywhere on that vacuum "railing". It too is a manifold, a vacuum manifold. Although with cars the term is usually reserved for intake or exhaust piping a...

Black wire with a red stripe. You'll find it behind the left kick panel in the center of connector G1 (pin 7): http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=30 http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=31

What he said. I also suggest you buy a TSRM. And there are at least two ways to check for codes with a dysfunctional MIL. One will show if codes are set and the other will let you read them. However if it was me I'd fix the dash...

^ Not to be picky but fluorocarbon and kerosene have excellent chemical compatibly...

Just connect the regulator directly to the manifold. Btw the FPU system is designed to be fail safe and even if it wasn't it wouldn't prevent the engine from starting or idling. Me thinks you're woofing up the wrong tree...

They don't. There's other fail in that post too. Good thing it's not in the Tech section...

All the VSVs on the engine are three ways. The third ports are supposed to have a small filter on them...