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As stated good tools are an investment. They draw less blood too. They won't help with the idiot part though ;)

I prefer the cable type. There are cheaper ones out there but I use a Mayhew Rigiflex: http://www.joetoolcompany.com/may28630.html

The stock radiator is isolated from the chassis...

The problem is I don't see how a missing one could be either ;)

Fair nuff. Try one of those controllers. I think you'll be satisfied. Not a good thing. The fan should shut down at or slightly above the thermostat's rating for what should be obvious reasons...

It'll be fine. After the engine is hot run it at a steady 2500 rpm. The WB should read close to 14.7. If it doesn't there's something wrong with either it or the car...

Your wideband doesn't measure air fuel ratio. It measures oxygen. Since it calibrates to the O2 content of the atmosphere it should be accurate but that's the chance one has to take. You can always compare it to a NB at stoich since the NB is more accurate. They should agree...

Welcome. That's a common failure mode with the alarm. However if it were me I'd first unplug the theft box connector and check with a meter to see if the switch was working but since I'm not the one who gets to take apart the door for possibly no reason I say just go for it :)

I like the Spal, either the older one (http://tinyurl.com/psgwlm) or the newer version 3. I also like the Dakota Digital PAC 2700: http://tinyurl.com/ry56er I've used all of them in cars that can't use a fan clutch and both have worked well. Otherwise it's my opinion e-fans are things to be...

Good answer...

I've never seen a track in Odessa either but I could be wrong ;) The wife and daughter are heading home in July for 6 weeks. Unfortunately I can't make it this year otherwise I'd have liked to meet you and see the car. Next year looks good though. Hopefully you won't be at sea...

Which VSV are you referring to?

I get the impression you've never been to Ukraine ;)

I don't see where you mentioned the fuse in your first post but if you had we could have pointed you to that fairly common cause. And trust me, it wasn't the ground that shorted ;) Fwiw neither your timing nor idle will ever be right as long as you have a TPS caused code 51...

What's worrisome is the lower temp sans t-stat implies the system ought to handle a typical heat load but can't. His reserve isn't a good as I usually see but it should be enough for all but extreme operation in a very hot ambient. Not a good sign. OP: It's best to do a test at this point even...

Hmmm, your reserve isn't as good as it should be with a new rad. Do you feel any cold spots on it? Is there at least a 40 degree drop across the top and bottom hoses? Since the heater doesn't bring temp down like it used to the water pump impeller may be corroded or the belt slipping. That's...

Lmao. Why are they almost always from Florida? Am I the only one who notices that?

And put the hole at 12 o' clock ;) I dunno though. Running without a T stat should have purged any air and with it in the turbo bypass should have done the same thing. Coolant expelled out the expansion tank? If not how much does it rise over the cold level? Hoses feel rock hard or look...

Does running the heater on high bring the temp down?

What does that mean? I'm assuming it means the car doesn't overheat with the thermostat out. If so what does the temperature gage show under those conditions. Lower than normal, normal, or higher?