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Your pics are always helpful. You know, it'd be nice if posters spill what they're trying to do instead of simply asking questions. Would save a flurry of PMs. I think he's got it figured out now. Speaking of pix somewhere I have photos of a CPS clamped in my lathe with my DSO connected to it...

G1 and G2 are the crank angle pickups, NE is the rpm pickup, and G- is the common for all of them. Since the pickups are reluctors 12 volts isn't needed...

Sigh. Just follow directions and answer the questions Grasshopper. Does the pump run with those pins of the COR jumped and the key on? I don't want FP and B jumped. And does the CEL come on as soon as the key is turned on?

Yep, you be confused alright. Remove the COR in the right kick panel. Jumper pins 1 and 2: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=22 Turn the key on. Does the pump run? Is the check engine light on?

Well then you just have to run it down. It's a very simple circuit. What in the diagram don't you understand?

The yellow wire from ECU FP only controls pump speed. It should go high when cranking because the ECU runs the pump at high speed until the engine starts. I seriously doubt it has anything to do with your problem. As CRE said check the switch in the AFM. Or manually push the vane in with the key...

The guys from Calgary and Minnesota say dump it. The guys from Cali, Hawaii, and Texas say keep it. Must be a message in there somewhere ;) It's your choice of course. I keep mine because: 1) Comfort. 2) I take pride in having everything on my car work perfectly. 3) I invested in the tools...

Use the same gasket (O ring) that's already in there. Fluid is 50 ml of 3000 cst silicone. You can get raped by Toyota (p/n escapes me at the moment) or you can go to the local hobby store/ebay and buy it for cheap. Used in RC car diffs and comes in just the amount needed. Here's an example...

Assuming the bearing is OK for 5 bux you can rebuild/refill it...

^ Exactly. The manufacturer touts it as "not a dye but a silicone based dressing". As if that's a good thing. I prefer dye for it's longevity. I've tried most of these products and the best I've found is Forever Black...

I'm talking about bringing the coax in to the KS connections on the ECU, splitting off the shields, and connecting both to E1...

Helicoil, et al. IJ: Beats JB Weld, although I'm sure that won't prevent some of these guys from trying it ;)

Folks seem to break those often. Either that or they strip the holes out. I coiled mine when I rebuilt the engine. You might consider doing the same while you have the housing out. The advice about using anti seize is good too.

How can we get anywhere if you don't even know where shit is? Unless you moved it the COR is in the right kick panel, as is the starter relay: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=22 I'm done. I'll say it one last time: do whatever it takes to put +12 (or...

Yes. It doesn't matter where the STA signal comes from as long as the ECU gets it. The start coil of the COR and the starter relay are normally all connected to the same point anyway. Your STA signal may not be reaching the ECU through the normal path but it has to be working at the starter...

Then use an ohmmeter to find the other end of the wire on STA. It has to have another end right? Again, why even use that harness? If the COR is in the pax kick panel so is the starter relay. If the ECU is nearby (you didn't answer the question) why not simply connect STA to the COR or starter...

Again, is there a wire on STA at the ECU connector? This would be a lot easier if I knew how the harness was installed on your MKII. Where is the ECU located in the car? Where is the Circuit Opening relay and starter relay located? Why not make the connection there? Why are you even screwing...

^ Could be that's his problem...

You're welcome but the STA wire should be there. Maybe he's not looking in the right place. Be careful how you mess with that NSS circuit btw. Simply jumpering the connector will result in no cruise control...

Look at the ECU connector. Is there a wire on STA? If so ring it out with a meter. It should be there but if not use the black/white wire from connector B1, pin 12: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=46 Simply take if off NSW and connect to STA...