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Nothing should leak when cold.

Lmao. It's supposed to be too hot to touch. Btw people have been cooking with their engines for decades. I've done it myself a few times on longish trips...

If pressure does drop it might also be an electrical problem. I've seen more than a few of these cars where the fuel pump speed relay goes bad. One quick way to test that is to jumper the pump on (B+ to FP) in the diagnostic block and drive the car. If the problem goes away suspect a bad pump...

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=FI&P=73 Check it both with and without the vacuum hose on. With hose off quickly snap the throttle wide open several times. If pressure doesn't drop more than 2 psi there's no restriction in the fuel supply. And the problem can't be...

No more superfluous than it was too keep saying fix it. The difference is in one case he's getting good advice while in the other he wasn't...

Cores are usually vacuum brazed. That said hand brazing takes more skill than soldering. And assuming it is soldered the solder typically used for sweating tubing won't do because coolant will eat it. Especially if it's Toyota OEM coolant. Based on all that he'd be smart to simply replace it...

Make way for the Waahmbulance...

Kerosene, preferably applied with a sprayer. Cheap and effective...

The item in circled in blue is the AC clutch relay. Says so right above it. Located under the fuse box, as if the connector (circled in red) and wire that leads to the compressor...

It matters a great deal what the wattage is...

Either buy an aftermarket filter with adapter or put the stock air box on with a gasket and bolts. You're going to need a filter anyway. What you're experiencing is fairly common when trying to run a naked AFM. For the laminar flow screen to work properly it requires a minimum of one...

I won't bore you with the details but try putting an air filter on it...

Close all junkyards? Where does it say that? http://www.govtrack.us/congress/billtext.xpd?bill=h111-1550 All it says is that any high polluting vehicle accepted under the program can't have it's engine block or drive train resold. All other parts are OK. Considering the legislation's intent...

It's God woopin your ass. Better get used to it...

Zumtizzle wins. Look it up: http://tinyurl.com/m2f344

Lmao. Did you look under the hood of this car before you bought it?

Interesting. From it's color the battery is an older model PowerSonic. I'm guessing a PS-1270. That size battery (why would stereo boosting need battery back up?) and the type of antenna indicate a transmitter. Could be an old DYI surveillance tracker. It'd help to know the cable/antenna...

Maybe it should be tight enough to prevent leaks? And the system shouldn't even run if it's empty. If it is you're about to be in for some very expensive repairs...

They can't be resistance checked because unlike many knock sensors they don't have an internal shunt resistor. That said they can be roughly tested with a meter (or headphones) and properly tested with a scope.

Your two cents is dead on other than that circuit can actually supply more than enough power to run his stuff. The problem is if something goes wrong (or the install was badly done) it could bring the EFI system down. Better to connect to something that can afford to be lost...