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Yes, unless you're trying build a fuse tester ;) As you stated the fans won't come on unless the high side pressure gets way up there. Fwiw I've never seen that happen on my car. The only time my fans come on is after engine shutdown. Still, it's better to have them wired to the AC as Toyota...

Ponder this: if you connect 30 and 87 as described where will the current flow when the relay is energized?

Sounds like a pirate air problem...

Good. That you learned something new today makes us both happy :) It's a real time code used as a diagnostic aid that never gets set in memory. If it did it'd get set every time the gas pedal was stepped on. Only code of it's type in the system.

51 doesn't get stored...

20 something is young. If fact due to the lack of development there's little difference between most of them and children. That's made abundantly clear here on a daily basis. Or were you just talking about physical age?

No, it won't.

That's either the AC compressor relay or condenser fan. And the fuel filter is in back of the car...

Just waking up at all makes me happy ;) Being married to a woman who thinks her #1 purpose in life is to please her husband. Friends. My dog. Carving a canyon on the bike. 450 knots @ 100 AGL in the desert. Beer.

Windows work? If so not the 30 amp CB. Btw: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=18 Beats asking for photos...

Indeed they're not the same thing although both are used on L Type (air flow metered) EFI systems. What do you mean by under 1000K (that's a hell of an idle btw) it acts as if there's no AFM? If everything is working right you could unplug the AFM and drive around all day as long as you took...

Good luck with it Dave. It's nice to know there are people in this community who're still willing to do things right even though it takes considerable effort at times.

While running a more solid ground from the intake to battery negative is a good thing you'll still need to test between there and ground at the ECU to eliminate wiring as the cause. I feel your problem is on the positive side though. In response to your PM of course a positive jumper is going...

Then the break has to be between there and the VSV connector in either the wire itself or the two connectors downstream. First make sure you're dealing with the right servo. Are the wire colors right? Pin 12 white/blk and pin 4 blk/yel? Does the ground on pin 4 disappear when the CC head is set...

It's true. Why I gave up. I remain surprised by your success at it. Must be all in the delivery...

I don't think it's his igniter either but he wants to test it. Who am I to stop him?:) OP: The TSRM procedure can be confusing if you're unaware of how the igniter works. Member isnms does a nice job of covering it here: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=47334&highlight=igniter

Yeah, it's a bugger to get at. If you can try checking for ground on pin 12 going in and pin 4 going out. That'll at least tell you whether it's really the culprit. You're looking for ground when not full cold btw. Remember, anything above full cold energizes the VSV to open the coolant valve...

Lmao. Do you think the igniter cares where that 3 volts comes from? You could build a tiny little nuke plant. Or maybe try putting a couple of AA batteries in series...

Hey, I'm offended by that ;) btw: http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=richeous :)

That wire does have a home and that home is the threaded hole right next to it. The engine will run without it but it should be connected. And the other end is (or should be) nutted to a stud on the head...