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That is true, but you can get Amsoil EaO filters for the 7M for $15.30...this filter is the best full flow conventional filter out there IMO. They are rated (and guaranteed) for 15,000 miles or 1 year in severe service when used with a PAO or ester based synthetic. The replacement elements...

I have not personally, but from what I've seen it's an excellent filter that flows extremely well. And, that casing is damn sure never going to burst! Only complaint is the cost of replacement elements ;)

<Sigh> Yep...another "clean up the engine bay" crusade :3d_frown:

^^^ Perfect candidate this thread was made for: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=42763 Might want to re-think why you're using a Toyota filter ;)

TruFilters use a 45 micron steel screen...any good conventional filter will catch 90&#37; of 20 micron particles. If you're going to go that route, the CM filter is hard to beat...rated at 8 microns. The body is reusable with replacement elements, just like the TruFilter...and, the CM is quite...

LOL...another sucker baited in ;) http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=61660&highlight=Pulstar

I agree with BorHor...stay away from drilled rotors. Slotted is fine...drilled can tend to crack.

Congrats Geezer...I see you found a supply of GC ;)

Really?...that's an interesting comment. Red Line MT-90 is a superior product IMO for the R154 or W58 trannys...it's formulation is better vs Red Line 75W-90NS in a transmission application. Everyone using MT-90 I know of reports smoother shifts and less tranny noise. I'd like to hear why...

Because there are several sensor signals that affect basic ignition timing...Intake air volume, engine speed, throttle position, and knock signal. ANY problems with these sensors, their circuits, or ANY problem with idle engine speed will produce incorrect parameters for setting basic ignition...

Three words: Coil Spring Compressor

Thread moved :3d_frown:

Read pages IG17 to IG20: http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=IG&P=17 Step 4a & b is the same as aligning the cam gear marks to the index marks on the back plate. Step 4c & d sets the #1 piston at TDC when the crank is pointing at zero. IG19 you install the...

Ok...that sets the base timing. Cam gears at zero, crank dampner at zero, distributer set at #1. Did you jump TE1 and E1, then use a timing light to set at 10 BTDC with the motor running? (by adjusting the distributer) There should be no CEL codes displayed when TE1 and E1 are jumped...

Other than I didn't know there was a 6th gear, what are you talking about Gaboon?

That would take a lot of crankcase pressure :aigo:

Maybe in you car it does Gaboon...never in mine ;)

Seafoam is one of those things that cost way more than good it does. If you want to clean carbon off your valves, hook a bottle of water with a needle valve to control flow to the boost sensor nipple. On an NA, you could T off the brake booster. Adjust the needle valve until you just get a...

Soooo...all that oil you spoke about in the 1st post was actually smoke? Did you see any liquid oil at all in the 1st incident?

The PCV should not affect turbo seals. A plugged up PCV or catch can Cletus routed can build up excessive pressure in the block...especially if you have blow-by on the rings. The pressure is the problem...it can unseat main and cam seals.