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That's what I did except I bought it from a parts store and replaced it every 5 years. I dunno what the OPs fascination with silicone is but I figured his mind was made up...

No can read? If someone else wants to help you dump NOx into the air and possibly blow up your engine fine but I won't. I'll help you with the O2 though. Go here. Use 14.5 volts and 1 amp to find resistance. Then use that value to determine power. http://www.the12volt.com/ohm/page2.asp...

NB emulation usually works OK although I don't recommend it for other reasons. I've posted the O2 resistor stuff before. About 1 amp is required and a TO-220 thick film package works well. Heat sink it to the body if needed. EGR needs to have the temp sensor input fooled (not the VSV) but it's...

I know a source but I don't think she's willing to part with them. Do you mean caps? Try here. Scroll down: http://www.mcmaster.com/#rubber-caps/=5pbr8y There aren't many things you can't get from McMaster. Fast shipping too. They tend to be on the expensive side though...

Allow me to clear that part up for you. Key detection is a completely different circuit than ignition. It's nothing more than one wire that gets grounded when the key reaches the bottom of the cylinder. You know, some time with a meter and the schematic would quickly track the problem down...

Afaik in the US only Autozone carries it. Been that way for years...

Some say use the starter...

Haynes manual? 10 lashes ;) You're correct about the temp sensor. Test for frequency on Ks referenced to E2 which is sensor ground. I suggest buying a meter that has frequency and duty cycle built in. Even cheapish ones have them these days. Course, nothing beats a scope for this kind of work...

Place just slays me at times...

How much more evidence do you need?

Lol, it's the coolant thing again. I'm not going to get into this except to say Zerex recently introduced a new coolant for Asian vehicles: http://www.valvoline.com/products/brands/zerex/antifreeze/105 It's a silicate-free phosphate HOAT, the same chemistry as OEM pink. It's the first (and...

Spelling aside, technically there's no such thing but I'll let it slide :)

^ Nice tools...

The stock sender input isn't used for fuel calculations. It's used for idle speed control trimming. Removing it won't set a code but target idle can vary around 50 rpm under certain conditions. Most people either don't notice or don't care...

Must be an industry where they don't have valve relief ;)

http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=116164 Probably your answer right there...

Been lucky I guess...never had one fail. The factory one was replaced at engine overhaul even though it was fine. The replacement lasted until the end. 22 years, 2 pumps. Both were OEM parts. Fwiw there was a coolant filter on the engine from almost day one. I can't say for sure it helped but...

Exactly. Most thermostats are not failsafe. They're spring loaded closed. And what happens if it fails to open after a cold start (the most common failure) and say, you just jumped on the freeway? I'd have thought all this would've been obvious but I guess not. Truth is I chuckle at the...

Defeating the evap system is doing things right? I hope you at least vented the tank another way. What you propose for the temp sender will work but it's not optimum and could fail you when needed most. Maybe it's the pilot in me talking but instrumentation should be done right, otherwise...

In case you haven't noticed the stock gage sender as well as the EFI sender are on the engine side of the thermostat. There are reasons for that...