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Not sure I follow. TEMS is supposed to actuate (anti-squat mode) when the pedal is rapidly moved. It's not something that needs fixing...because it isn't broke.

If you know what you're doing what was the point of all this? And if you didn't know do you honestly believe this thread has imparted all the information and wisdom necessary to do it right? Or do you just believe you know what you're doing but actually have NFI? I'm confused....

:nono:

No load? You know not about what you speak. It's a moot point however because the OP won't have to go through that anyway...

Yes. Damn, you're pretty smart for a Floridian :icon_razz

Yeah, that's completely normal for a car that cost $25K+ twenty years ago ;) Start first by checking the socket and grounding on the dim side...

Thanks for the kind words. Yeah, I'm not a fan of spoon feeding. Teach a man to fish and all that. I'm sure you would have eventually found it on your own because after all it was just fuses. Simple stuff...

The idle air bypass screw should be fully seated. It sounds like either the replacement TPS isn't set up right or damaged. Confirm by checking codes. You should have check it and adjusted everything on the TB before installation. Now you'll have to do it on the car. Assuming you get it set...

Even though O2 sensors are one of the most needlessly replaced parts on cars if yours is original it's time has probably come. Odd you don't have a code though. Good luck and let us know what happens....

Shaeff huh? Well, he's a pretty sharp guy but I'd have to see it. The Haynes manual borders on worthless and long horrible trips can be caused by lots of things, many not even related to the car ;) You can't test the lambda cell using resistance and the heater may be OK depending on ambient...

Your thoughts are 20 months late Brian ;)

Tested how? State your methods.

Good on you. Just took a bit of persistence. Mike: I do what I can but it's tough to deal with even simple stuff from afar. The irony about electrical issues is, as I've said before, that there are no other class of problem on the car where the solution is so clearly spelled out. All it...

Tails or brakes? Which is it? Both? Did the CEL come on before this happened? If so that's why it won't start: no power to the ECU. The tails/brakes are a different issue.

In theory they would but imo it's not worth the hassle. Same with silicone hoses. I never use them unless they're going into a place that's a bitch to get at. Then again people buy lots of stuff for all kinds of reasons, most of them irrational... Btw: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Silicon

Well, that's good to hear but I can only hypothesize based on the symptoms you report. That and you need to check stuff more carefully. All fuses in the left kick panel good? Does the dash now light up? CEL come on? Radio? Wipers? Battery light? What else isn't working besides the brake lights...

Huh? I poking fun at Zum. What's your beef? Edit: Ah, I see. Had to go back and look at the thread. I dunno what to say except the mounting tabs are clearly steel (aluminum would be a poor choice in that application) and since aluminum can't be brazed or welded to steel the pipe must also be...

The EWD is very well done and contains everything you need. There is nothing better. One needs to learn how to use it though. I'm assuming the 86.5 model year has similar wiring to the 87. I hope so because the 87 and 89 prints are all I have to go on. At least the wire colors for those...

Although I never respond to them you wouldn't believe the entertainment I get out of spark plugs threads ;)

Was that done using a braising alloy on aluminum pipe? ;)