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Well, that's what I'm saying- it's advertised as not fuel-rated. It is pressure rated to 250psi, but of course that's not the concern. It Jeg's brand, though i'm sure another manufacturer made it. I assume since you say yours is fuel rated- it must be from Aeroquip, or another brand.

hmm. Not a good sound to have after getting low on oil. Reading threads like this has made me paranoid, and I now check my oil level every single morning. Are you sure it was white smoke, and not blueish white? Regardless, the telltale sign of rodknock for me was a rattling under part throttle...

so...should I be worried about the degradation of the internal material? How long have you been on pushloc for fuel, IJ? Have you ever been in a position to inspect the inner lining after use?

Umm....What kind of vibrations are you getting between shits? :momaru: What kind of toilet are you chillin on? As for the metallic/oil smell...what have you been eating? :rofl: Ok- as for the vibration between shiFts, I might guess either an issue with the flexplate/ bolts, or the...

Hey guys- I had been using a -6an stainless line for my AFPR to fuel rail, but I was concerned about the danger of shorting against the alternator, so about 4 months ago I replaced the line with Jeg's -6 pushloc. I've had no problems whatsoever, but i was just on Jeg's site, looking at more...

Resistor change was easy- took literally 5 minutes to do.

$8 at Autozone, etc.

I have this same problem with my Walbro. within 10 seconds of shutting down, my FPR gauge drops to zero psi in the line. I have to kick the starter for a split second to get the pump to run, then I can start it. I was thinking I was the only one.

Nice man.

ok then.

I think at a minimum(if it's not done already- you need to remove the cams so that all valves seat. As for the block- like poodles said, those coolant passages look terrible. I honestly don't even know if you can take enough material off to re-establish the normal boundaries of the passages...

So does power come in at around the same rpm with the T61, as it did with the 57 trim? My power goals really aren't past 400hp, and Id rather get power at lower rpm, if one spools faster than the other.

So Paradox- Given your experience with this turbo and its performance, and you had the chance to do it all over again- Would you still stick with this T61, or go with a modified Ct26 (57 or 60 trim)?

One way or other, it does sound like spark/ timing.

Do you have a way of testing your fuel pressure at the rail? That might narrow the problem down to pump and filter.

Hearing it makes you faster. You could get this in the meantime- it's cheaper, won't make you stall, and definitely vented to atmosphere: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n79jSzKA0L8 ; )

You mean like this? Lots of people have done it, but not with the OEM metering unit. You can't. ---------- Post added at 01:27 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:26 PM ---------- LMAO! Damn- sometimes, you gots some good ones.

I just had my windshield replaced on Friday, and I had them use the new-style trim as well. Looks fantastic., and I imagine that due to the lack of a raised channel, there might be less wind noise from it too. I will have to check that theory next time i'm on the highway.

Good point. And I agree that the brake shims/ springs can be the culprit too, but I think it may be a second source of noise, no the only one.

From Evil Dead 2. I'll be the guy wearing the Army of Darkness T-shirt tomorrow. Ash is THE man. When Chuck Norris goes trick-or-treating, he dresses up as Ash.