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All you have to do, is remove the two lines from that J-tube, unbolt it from the side of the motor, use a drill to open up the restriction on one end, and put it back on. Easier than splicing hoses together, unless you're adding an adjustable fuel pressure regulator(which you probably should).

Say- If anyone out there has a flywheel off their car, maybe you could measure the contact surface diameter? That would be awesome!

I've always thought my composite HG's had an equal embossing of metal around jackets on both sides of the gasket. What brand of gasket was it?

I second this. In fact, I third it too. Also,(as mentioned) check your rad. I really think the stock rad is barely sufficient even if it's new. I got a cheap two row core aluminum rad and it solved my overheating issues(vs. old rad).

Granted- there's no point in having a disc bigger than the surface area of the flywheel/ pressure plate. I guess I'm just worried that my disc face might be slightly smaller than those surfaces, and I'm losing grip. Granted, less contact area means more pressure per square inch, but I would...

Looking for the big dogs to comment...I know they memorize this stuff...

I know I'm revivng an old thread, but I saw another bargain on pumps: RockAuto has three left at less than half price! Part# 15100-42020- says it's the 7MGTE pump.

Looks good, man.

Drove it and the road noise isn't bad at all. To be accurate, I don't hear 'road noise', I mean to say I hear a bit of differential noise. All it really is, is a growl from the diff when I put load on the engine, but it's very subtle. Can't hear any additional noise at all at cruise. In fact...

Ok, I just put the "yay!" in the title to get you guys in here. I have a question about the stock turbo clutch. I've seen that the stock NA disc is 9 1/4in. diameter, but what about the turbo unit? I've seen replacements listed with 9 1/4in, 9 5/16in, 9 7/8in, and even 9 1/2in diameter. I'd...

Aw c'mon- I answered your question seriously. Not my fault you mispelled precisely 23.3333%(yes, I did the math) of your entire post.

I got my BIC nylon bushings in the mail from Randy last week, and I finally got the courage to drop my rear subframe. I was afraid it would be an all-day thing, and I'd have to unbolt and remove everything to get it done. But no. It was quite straight forward. All I did was: 1. Loosen my...

True. OIL has an 'L' on the end ON is spelled with an 'N', not 'M' In the word "there's"- notice the extra 'e', and the apostrophe "When" has an 'h', and so does "what". As for your oil trouble, the factory valve cover bolts tend to lose tension. Re-tighten them. Sorry for the rant, but I...

Wow- never heard a bad comment about Battleground. Say Giter- I haven't heard a word from Tubbie in forever. Is he still into Supras? When's the last time you spoke with him? I tried calling him last month, no response.

dragging brakes? Bad(really bad) alignment?

I don't really see why turbo size would affect mileage so much. I presume that The TCCS is simply trying to keep a set stoichiometry during closed loop cruise. How are you controlling fuel? Do you have an SAFC? AFPR? Lexus AFM?

You can get them from a number of places- This is the cheapest place I've found: http://www.cylinderheadsupply.com/valve-clearance-discs-25mm.html

It'll work.

When I get on moderate throttle, I sometimes smell oil too. I think I have a slight leak from the oil feed on my turbo, and it's hitting my DP. But not sure. Going to tear into it when I get home.

I'm a bit ignorant on this, but is it possible that any wire off the CPS causing a short to another, would cause a misstep in the TDC signal to the igniter? Might that possibly cause occasional stumbling as well as a code 14? Again, I'm spitballing, and hope none of the more adept(JJ, IJ)...