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Correct. The things mentioned should be checked but as I've said before Toyota factory training manuals specifically point to the turbo as a likely cause when encountering white smoke under heavy boost and my experience backs that up.

http://tinyurl.com/y97nt62 It's usually easier to use a meter...although this may not have been one of those cases ;)

Make sure the crank pulley bolt is tight...

No reason to try it unless you really want to see. As I said if it calibrated correctly using voltage it has to deflect correctly using resistance. Since you do not possess the power to invalidate Ohms' Law no other result is possible. Btw you didn't even need a meter to do this. You could have...

As long as you understand the TPS isn't/wasn't deflecting backwards. You only thought it was.

Nah, not offended. Incredulous. Good luck with it though...

If the engine rhythmically cuts off and comes back on at a lower rpm the problem is caused, as stated, by failure of the IDL contact to open. This is confirmed by the *lack* of a code 51 and the presence of code 41 when the throttle is opened. This is because 41 gets set anytime VTA exceeds 1.5...

No offense dude but you need help from a forum for this? It isn't something you can figure out on your own?

For the TPS to calibrate with voltage it *has* be deflecting correctly when resistance is measured. There can be no mistake about that. It's OK you're confused but it's not OK you continue to blame the TPS rather than even consider the error is yours. That type of thinking will not serve you...

Not that it matters now but if the alarm was at fault it's not possible for the starter to click...

A ratchet, 10mm socket, and a screwdriver should do it...

What you're asking about is called back probing and for voltage checks of course the connector needs to be plugged in. The TPS receives power from the ECU and is incapable of producing signal on it's own. Voltage on IDL (referenced to E2 or battery negative) should be near zero with the...

Lmfao. You obviously have *way* more of a life than ^ guy...

Does the valve responded when you power it off the car? Does it home just after engine shutdown? The ISC system will not operate unless vehicle speed is below 11 mph and the IDL contact in the TPS is closed. A problem with either of those should give you codes though. Check the wiring as you...

If the MIL is off when the key is on it means 1) the bulb is bad 2) the ECU isn't powered 3) Vc is shorted. The last two mean no start...

Multimeter isn't going to cut it. Need a scope, preferably a DSO. Forget the other sensors. Why? Once hot the engine doesn't need but the load, rpm, and knock signals to run way better than what you're describing. With a stock ECU the engine will even run well without a load signal, at least...

Fair nuff. So I'm assuming it didn't activate? Does the light come on for 3 seconds when the key is turned on on? Done the diags? Fuses? What have you done other than making a "help, car broken" thread?

Is the MIL on before you try starting it? Timing? Spark? Fuel pressure? You write a lot but don't say much...

Need to figure out if it's fuel or spark. If it were here the first thing I'd do is put it on the ignition scope. You could check each sensor when the engine is doing it to see if they measure what their supposed to. Not going to be the O2 sensor. If EFI related it's probably the load or rpm...

I mean once it happens does it ever clear up during driving or must you wait until it cools?