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What bluepearl said. They're lenses. Along good lamps and a rewire one of the best things you can do to the car. They use regular H4 lamps. No ballasts required unless you put HID capsules in them, something people should be slapped for...

I ultrasonically clean them in Freon 113. The stuff is hard to come by though. You're lucky whatever was in that particular brand of carb cleaner didn't craze the optics...

There's nothing wrong with Valvoline but if you really want to change my recommendation would be Mobil Clean 5000 or Mobil Clean 5000 High Mileage...

I see. Where on the car did you plug this scanner in?

I know jack and he says you should check for codes. Specifically a 51. He also says buy a TSRM. Use the refund from college...

^ This. I suspect an open IDL contact as that would explain both symptoms. It's why you should never try and time one of these engines without first checking what the MIL is doing after jumpering the diag block...

Turbo MKIIIs (even California ones) don't have sub-O2 sensors...

I see. Well, good luck with it. Wish I could help but all this is way over my head...

That's a nice post. Would've been better with the code though...

One of us is confused. What relays are you talking about?

Not sure what you mean but if you're referring to the Circuit Opening Relay it has nothing to do with the starter operating...

You're welcome guys. Towards the bottom of the page: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=33

It's for the condenser fans Dave. ConDenSer :)

1) The ECU grounds pin W to turn the lamp on. 2) E1 is used as the ground source for the lamp. 3) My schematic and the online TEWD shows the lamp as being connected through M1 pin 8, not 9. Perhaps an artifact of your swap. 4) The voltage drop between M1 and pin W with the lamp on...

I'm making an assumption but based on what SupraClaou wrote this isn't much different than the economy gages that used to be found on many cars and can still be bought today. They're nothing more than a manifold vacuum gage with a different face. In your case the setup appears to use a vacuum...

You keep making this more complicated than it is. Forget the cruise control. Your idle symptoms along with the 51 imply a TPS or TPS wiring problem. Again, that can be verified by running the engine in diag mode and seeing if the 51 remains...

I'll sell you some for way over 130 if that's what you really want...

Zero to wheelchair in two seconds ;)

Does the cruise control work? If it does the wiring has probably been modified to make the system think it's in gear but again, if the 51 disappears with the engine running the NSW circuit is unrelated to your problem..

Welcome Ian. Yeah, I've heard that about crank walk. As for remote start pinning someone (perhaps oneself) to another car or garage wall isn't a pleasant experience for all involved...