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If you'd like to go ahead. That'll prove the 51 is TPS or TPS wiring related. After that you can focus on those areas. And yes, everything you need to know is in the TSRM and TEWD. Be careful about which pins you're jumping because the pix in the TSRM for the GE and GTE can be confusing...

51 is real time (not set in memory) and won't light the MIL unless the diag block is jumpered. Sounds like yours is TPS wiring related. Leave the pins shorted (make sure they're the right ones) and measure for continuity at the ECU. If the circuit is indeed open short each side to ground to...

^ Huh? On a stock system the supply side should hold rest pressure a long time. The spec is something like 5 minutes but any system in good condition will hold it much longer.

Third pic. Iirc it's that bolt hole just behind the AC compressor bracket. The connection requires minimal voltage drop because starter current returns though it. Not only can it effect starter performance but whatever current is left behind will find another way to phone home. I've seen all...

It's NO and will need to be jumped. The cruise control clutch cancel is NC. OP: I hope you understand what you're doing. The day *will* come when you crank the engine in gear. And if this is for remote start it's even dumber...

1) EGR valve or blank off. 2) Clean the block grounding point. 3) What's up with the oil cooler line? 4) O2 sensor?

Reading that other thread was painful. Yes, the regulator should be airtight. Yours needs replacing.

http://duramax-diesel.com/spicer/index.htm

What Poodles said. Also check with ProSport on what the parasitic drain should be. I'd also load test the battery because 55 ma is nowhere near enough to drain a healthy one in two days. Not only does the math not make sense but one of my cars pulls 250 ma and it's good for at least a week...

Tartu eh? Everything you describe is normal. The stock gage is electronically moved by way of a vacoom transducer on the left inside fender...

:3d_frown: @ Toyota. That's a $10 part available from lots of places. Gem Sensors, Omega Engineering, even Ebay....

Now there's a post that belongs in the Tech Section if I ever saw one. The ECU uses oil pressure for idle speed control.

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=BE&P=40

...at least briefly :) http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/35650429/ns/us_news-life/

Catalyst poisoning occurs only if the coolant is silicated or contains silicone as the anti-foaming agent. Same for the O2 sensor...

Since you're messing with that circuit anyway my recommendation is to disable the pump, not the starter...

I suggest you determine if the bulb is good or not because if it's good you don't have a hope of getting spark...

It does sound like a BHG but fwiw there's supposed to be coolant in the water and a bad turbo seal won't cause coolant in the oil...

Your theroy is flawed. Hell, it's not even spelled right...