Search results

Yet another THA goose chase. Fww there are resistance specs listed in the book for the Karman side of the AFM. You'd have to be desperate to use them though...

Yeah, use the frequency and duty cycle functions. Use min/max/avg for checking amplitude. Look for a TTL level signal of 50% duty, frequency varying with air flow. Typical freq at hot idle is 18-22 hz. Resistance test sux...

Your Fluke 87 will easily do it. Not as good as a scope but plenty capable for what you need...

It is confusing. Furthermore the very fact he'd consider using ES12a in his car shows he knows little about refrigerants or MVAC. Not only is it illegal but it's dangerous. As a long time holder of 609 and 608 Universal certificates who has been working with refrigeration systems of all kinds...

Sorry Jon, my bad. I meant a flow check, max pressure check, things like that. And if you we're referring to more than simply jumpering it on (eg; scoped current probe for checking speed and commutator/brush condition) I stand corrected. OP: You must enjoy doing things the hard way...

Not sure what Kenny is getting at with that but the Fluke 87 is too nice a meter to blow up ;) Not that I think it's your problem but misfire will result in a lean indication on a device that can only measure O2...

1) No spark and fuel combined with no key-on MIL indicates no power to the ECU. That should be your first priority. 2) Codes can be checked by grounding Te1 at the ECU connector. If the MIL isn't working they can be read using a meter on pin W referenced to +12 volts. Or use Vf with the...

Crack me up. Or he could just put a test light in place of the fuse and unplug stuff until it gets dim or goes out altogether...

Hook it to ported vacuum. That way the evap cannister doesn't purge when the engine is hot and on idle...which is the way it's supposed to be.

You be welcome. Set it to be closed when on the stop screw but not so closed as to feel any "sticktion" when opening. Just fully closed. And remember: stop screw first, then TPS, then dashpot...in that order.

A sensor that's not abused can live to 75-100K miles but they can be killed by lots of things. One common cause is silicated coolant or using non-sensor safe silicone sealing products. Although Vf does show sensor cross counting under those conditions it's still an emulation. Use the raw data...

When set up properly it'll be very nearly closed. It'd have to be open quite a bit to exceed the ISC system's range and even then it wouldn't cause misfire.

Not difficult. Search more and you'll find how. Whether it'd be "worth the effort" is something you'll have to decide.

While what 3p says is true there are several ways of verifying fuel pump condition without dropping the tank. Consider yourself corrected...

That or, assuming you're on the right pins, the meter is ranged too low...

Ha. I'm 2 for 2. If I told you what month it is I'd be on a roll ;)

Lol, yeah, there's a screw on the ECU. And we are OBD...

I have not. For a chance at that here would have to be one in civilian hands and as far as I know none are.

Connect 12 volts to the 30 amp CB on Relay Block #5 in the left kick panel (remove the CB and connect to receptacle 2. If 2 doesn't work try 1). http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=22 Connect ground to battery negative or anywhere on the body/chassis...

Uh, although this code has nothing to do with boosting it's not something I would be doing until the problem is resolved...