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Fair nuff. If all else fails jack up the radiator cap and roll another car underneath it :)

Headlights aren't much good on a car that doesn't move. I'd fix the engine first :)

The HL relay is what handles lamp current. For the headlights to work: a) 12 volts must be on pins 1 and 4. Pin 4 supplies 12 volts to one side of the contact while pin 1 supplies it to one side of the coil. This is the "power side" of the circuit and carries the lamp loads. b) Ground...

Dunno what to say other than check the wiring and explain how it works: When at the headlight position the stalk supplies a ground to pin 14 on the Integration Relay. The circuit in the IR turns on the transistor, allowing current to flow through the headlight relay coil into pin 10 on the IR...

Well, it'll have 12 volts on it when the headlights are off but it should go to ground when the lights are on. Think about it: how could the headlight relay work with 12 volts on both sides of the coil? IR #2 is located behind the dash on the left side...

I think he was talking about fuel (rpm) cut from a shorted IDL. If so he is correct. In fact, for an "I'm no TPS expert", the post was pretty damn good...

I suggest you use this: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=060 And this: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=18 You must be misidentifying pins on the relay socket. Jumpering 4 and 5 should turn on the lights. Jumpering...

Something tells me you're not going to find anything .20 over...

^ Are you serious? I mean come on, look at the OP's post history...

Err...I'm unaware of any engine in which the operation of the evap system is relevant to whether the engine is boosted or not.

Well, that means your IDL contact is fine. No surprise since the code 51 behavior you posted earlier confimed that. Fuel pump draw: Set the meter to measure DC current on the 10 amp scale and move the red lead to the socket marked "10" or "A". Do not use the socket marked "ma". Turn the key...

It's understandable Nick. Those who lack critical thinking skills and seemingly have NFI how how to properly respond to posts from the very people who're trying to help them can be annoying.

Set the meter on any ohms range without the leads touching each other. Whatever the meter displays represents infinite resistance between the leads. You didn't answer about the resistor pack but it must be installed to use low impedance injectors. Without the pack they'll be toast. I'm...

^ I was wondering how long it'd take. Frustrating, isn't it? :)

Never hurts to have clean and gapped plugs, although the engine will run fine with some plug deterioration. Not only do the GE injectors flow less but if you left the resistor pack installed current to them will be limited. After all, that's the pack's purpose when using low impedance...

That meter is basic. You can't use it to measure Ks because it doesn't have a frequency function. If you're going to deal with the AFM you need one that does. Or a scope. Or just put the new AFM on, change injectors, and go from there. And put a filter on. The AFM needs a diameter or two...

First off, put a filter on the engine. Running the AFM open like that with the cooling fan nearby can result in unstable idle. "IDL - E2 .046 ohm-Closed 1ohm- .5mm Feeler Gauge 2k" Nothing wrong with that. "IDL - E2 1 ohm-.9mm Feeler Gauge 2k" Should be infinity. I assume it...

Just like wombats...except they're less grumpy ;) 75K miles btw...

Yes, that's what I meant. If you don't have 41 and do have 51 IDL is working. You must have done something wrong. L39: For play yes. For pay it's CRJs and (part time) a couple of bizjets.