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No offense but if you're truly interested in learning the first thing you should do is RTFM...

Not that it matters any longer for the OP but in the interest of accuracy, when using a stock ECU, that statement is wrong. The opposite is true.

There's electroplating and there's electroless plating. One uses electricity while the other does not. I have no idea what electrolysis plating is but I suspect it refers to the first process :)

Unless the wiring has been modified the pump isn't supposed to run when the key is at the on position, assuming that's what you meant.

Yeah, get it hot. You could always leave the T stat in. I edited it out but GM states to leave it in and then replace with new after the procedure is done. I kept an old one around for the purpose and so I could drive the car during that hour if I needed to.

What IJ said. The filter is there to keep dust out when the solenoid vents the regulator to atmosphere, which it does for 90-120 seconds after starting. It does this only when coolant temp is above 120 F.

Huh. Can't say I've ever seen that. Maybe you left the neutralizer in too long. No more than 10-15 minutes is recommended. The procedure Geezer mentioned is similar to the General Motors TSB for cleaning a Dex Cool sludged engine except they want it left in much longer. The oxalic should first...

A quick note: Silicone hoses come in varying degrees of silicone content with the more expensive ones having the most. The downside of those is larger diameters tend to collapse under vacuum, especially when coming off the throttle. That's why it's long been ill advised to use them for things...

Not to be "cocky" but that advice also isn't worth much. Neither APR nor wideband is needed to repair this particular problem.

You're talking about EDM and yes, it'll do the job quickly and without damage. I'd try all the other ways first though just to save the $60...

It says that because those are the items likely (but not always) to be involved with a loss of IGf, since the igniter generates it from the primary circuit's flyback. Therefore no ignition = no IGf. More correctly, no primary triggering = no IGf.

No IGf = code 14. Code 14 = no injection. No injection = engine stops...

Hell of a battery you've got there....

Not on my car, not in my manual, and that's not how it works according to the schematic but OK, if you say so. Btw how can it have no resistance when full and be open when low? It's the same thing...

Lincoln Memorial. On the back of a penny. Up until recently at least. Look closely and you'll see him sitting there. Thought I should point that out. I dunno why though...

I'm still trying to figure that out...

You have all that backwards...

I agree 100%. Even better would be to listen to one who is all of that and knows the emissions laws inside out. One who has been driving in the state and dealing with this stuff for over 30 years and one who is pleased the big changes coming will stop people who flaunt the law dead in their...

There are 3 hoses for the heater. Engine to core (driver's side), core to valve, and valve to head. edit: beaten by chunks :)

1) This problem is often caused by a faulty fuel pump relay. Driving the car with B+ and FP jumpered is a test for that. 2) There is absolutely no need to drop the tank in order to test the fuel pump, suction screen, and filter.