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Suprarich has them in stock...PM him to make sure.

Not a technique I would do ;) All MHG's have a specific RA spec...a file is not the optimum way to achieve it. If you re-use a MHG, you need a sealer to effect the initial. As stated earlier, stripping off the old Viton and using copper spray does a good job. On a new MHG, no sealer is...

I had my 7M crank knife edged, straightened, indexed and zero balanced w/ rods, pistons, flex plate, and damper weight included. Just over 5 lbs was removed...it's good to 10k RPM. The journals were also sized to stock diameter and the crank was nitrated, the the oil channel flushed. Is...

So, let me get this right...you raised boost to 12 psi on a stock motor with no prep. Is that correct? The torque spec is different depending on the hardware used...stock head bolts, ARP head bolts, or ARP studs...each is different.

Which junction box (J/B) or relay box (R/B)? http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=15 The next few pages in the EWD get more specific ;) Sounds like a relay to me.

http://www.mcmaster.com/ Just do a site search for "lapping"...they have the diamond paste too ;)

I suggest many hours of practice before the final effort :naughty:

Congrats! Moved to Off Topic ;)

I would think that you would get an ABS code 33 if the rear sensor was bad. Wiring between the ABS computer and ECT is a good bet ;)

Anything else you'd like to share? ;)

You'll get a better response if you pay attention and post in the correct section ;) Moved to General.

I'll promise you changing the fuel pump did not fix a code 52. It's usually a wiring issue between the knock sensors and the ECU.

Wrong section too...next time you get an infraction. Pay attention where you post.

That is also a really good place to install a coolant filter ;)

There's a really good reason for that too ;) http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=42763

Might as well get used to it Greg ;)

Forward in the engine bay is a better option ;)

10 psi per 1000 RPM is an old school rule-of-thumb...it's not hard and fast. It does insure that you will have the flow you need to the bearings to accomplish what I posted above. As RPM increases, so does the amount of oil required to keep the bearings "floating" from the increased force form...

No experience with Arias...JE's are good. I would not use Probe in a performance build...there are better pistons for that. Take a look at CP pistons...the 2J guys have been using them for a long time. Eagle rods get a bad rap...some of the earily problems with the rod specs have been...

For a resistance heater, it should not matter.