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QFT :biglaugh: Koenig - You want accurate info or you'll just start chasing your tail...trust me ;) To reset the ECU, all you have to do is pull the EFI fuse in the engine bay box for about a minute or so. Disconnecting the battery will work too.

Same here, except still using the stock line pressure up cable. IPT built tranny ;)

I am going to replace the wiring to the pump...10GA direct to the battery (re-located in the hatch area). I'm going to trigger a 30A Bosch relay with the stock wiring. The reason for this is to prevent a voltage drop (especially under boost) from using the old, small gauge wiring to run a high...

I would get an AFPR...guys have installed a Walbro without one, but always seem to run into problems later. If you just want to keep the pump at a constant 12V, you don't need a relay...just use the stock one. All you have to do is jump the resistor connector on the harness side to remove it...

Ummm...if you raise cylinder compression with a thinner MHG and you run high boost = BOOM! I would stay with stock thickness (accounting for material removed from the block/head decks). Cometic makes a good MHG...it's all in the prep and torquing it down correctly. The Stopper is the best...

It's 30mm overall length. The threads are 13mm long on one side, 9mm on the other. You need 7 studs...why not just buy a new set at the dealer?

Seemed a little low :biglaugh:

^^^ Another non-believer ;)

Start here: http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=FI&P=119

28.95 Gph ;) But, I don't think IJ specified lph in use...that is max flow for the pump.

The last 10 days of 110 deg temps aren't helping ;)

First Sean, read this: Motor Oil 101 - Dr AE Haas And the link in post #11 above...both links might open your eyes as to why you don't want to run a 20W-50 ;) You should be running a 0W or 5W-30...don't let the 1st number fool you...that is the cold viscosity of the oil. I does not...

What do ya mean, William knows what he's doing ;)

And for guys that really, really enjoy seeing the look on the other guy's face when his 5 speed gets thoroughly smoked :evil2:

Excellent reasoning...glad it worked for you and you have the overwhelming evidence to prove it. "I heard" and it "worked for me" are very compelling. ;) Personally, I will never let a non-detergent oil touch my engine...well, maybe my lawn mower. Wait, I don't have a lawn mower.

IJ nailed it...a straight 30W is what you want to use. However, you do not want to use a non-detergent oil to break an engine in. Here's a thread on break in: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=48993

One more time...check your codes. Otherwise you are wasting your (and our) time. http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/TechTips/engine_error_codes.aspx To check the ISCV...pgs 106 & 107: http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=FI&P=106 Did you clean it like I...

Any codes? To clean the ISCV you have to remove it and take the motor off (black part). It's held on with 3 screws. There's a hard rubber ring gasket under it...be careful not to break it. Clean the aluminum body with brake cleaner...same for the valve seat attached to the motor...

Why is it that doesn't surprise me ;) No way I'd use that stuff.

It will seal it all right...in places you don't want it to. It is going to trash your coolant system and be hell to get out when (if) you rebuild the motor.