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Split from the original thread. Time for you to learn how to use the TSRM: http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=BE&P=42

William...what you demonstrated here is a complete, utter lack of knowledge how the PCV system works.

You don't want to remove the charcoal canister...you either have a weenie roast waiting to happen or you took away the positive pressure in the tank. Those who advocate removing it, do NOT understand what/why it's there. It's stupid...especially since you can get a JDM canister and hide it in...

Ummm...how about reading the TRSM ;)

This is why I answered the way I did. The title is deceiving as to what he's really looking for. NA or not, I would not use stock torque on the head bolts...70-75 ft/lbs for OEM, ARP spec if used.

NPT and BSPT are both tapered threads, but the tapers are slightly different. As Ian said, they both seal on the threads. The mistake a BSPT is a metric thread is common...the major/minor diameters are often expressed in metric, as is the drill size. Read this...

Poodles - the oil would have to hit 250+ degs for you to even notice. The spring in the oil pump would still work at the same psi to regulate pressure, just higher if shimmed. If the squirters function at a lower psi, it would be a big pressure bleed....combined with a tired pump would make it...

So, basically $1400 for a new GT35R...not bad ;) The guy that sold it to you still should be flogged though.

Who - this will apply the proper preload to the fastener with an accurate spec torque and it should never loosen up. Doing a re-torque is up to you... Rumptis - You want to use a breaker bar to loosen. Do it incrementally over several passes...just estimate using the turn of the nut/bolt...

LOL...easy. Tighten all the bolt/studs down per the TSRM pattern...go to 90% of the final torque value. Use 15-20 ft/lb increments per pass. Loosen all the bolt/studs down per the TSRM pattern. Repeat until the 5th time, then make one more pass to set final (spec) torque.

Think about what you just said and where the line feeding the CSI is connected at. I know what the previous owner said...I'm not so sure I would believe everything you're told ;)

The original torque value for the HG was/is the problem. Torque a stock HG to 70-75 ft/lbs and you will have no problem.

It's for high temp starts...it's ECU controller when coolant temps are above a certain value. Taking it out can cause hot start issues. If you remove it, put a vac line between the 2 vac fittings that attach to it. And, what makes you think you don't need it? You can, but block off the...

It's tough to see with the motor in the car...you might be able to use a small mirror from the top.

It looks like a 10mm nut head right below the water pump, in line with the stock oil pressure sensor sticking out of the block main oil channel. It's a 1/8" BSPT plug.

A true statement...lock is imminent otherwise ;) And, it does belong in the video section...moved.

The HKS stopper is the best, but most expensive and will require machine work to the block/head decks to achive the RA spec required for that MHG. I like good ole Toyota OEM...torqued down correctly, it will serve him well. And, still fit in a budget ;)

LOL...not a slam on Ben, but I'll just about guarantee you he didn't go through 5 loosen-up/torque-down cycles ;) It's a simple fact most guys don't, hence why I'll tell you to re-torque. He did do a slight over torque, but not enough to cause a problem.

You think correctly ;)

It is...cheap too ;) For me it's an old habit, but doing 5 torque cycles on the hardware does the same thing. JJ pointed out to me that's the way it is required for piston engine aircraft.