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The Autolites are shorter than the (JIC standard?) plugs used on the 7M...about 1/8". On some wires, they work fine...on others they dont. I would get some NGK coppers in a "7" heat range, gapped to .027"-.028".

What do have the plugs gapped at? What brand/heat range plugs?

It's actually 1/8" BSPT thread ;)

^^^ Vang - Ignore this...do what I told you. Confirm the sensor/wire in this pic:

That tells me the wire from the sensor is or the gauge is grounding out: http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=BE&P=42 Disconnected from the sensor, the gauge should move to cold (ignition on). Where are you getting voltage at exactly? Attach the connector to the...

It does this regardless if the sensor is hooked up or not?

Thanks for the link...pretty interesting comparison. I'd like to see how the 4088 behaves on the 7M though ;)

Boy...you sure got this one wrong ;) The oil cooler circuit does not function till the valve relief pressure (40 psi) is met...the spring will keep pressure at least at that psi. If pressure drops, the valve closes and oil stops flowing through the cooler circuit. If the valve is stuck open...

Better? ;)

It's impossible to help you unless you post the emissions numbers...including the allowed level.

Do this to confirm it's the fuel pump resistor...it's simple. Just disconnect the resistor and jump the 2 prong connector on the harness side with a 12GA wire. You'll have to strip the ends, flatten with a hammer, and file the sides to fit the connector.

LOL...you must be able to see me biting my tongue (in half) reading this thread. I'll say this...running that motor, especially a drag race, with either a cooling system problem or a BHG is going to end in a very expensive way. IJ said it...park it till you figure out what it is.

I was wondering the same thing about the 2J ECU...either 12V or gnd could be used to trigger a relay.

If it's like other Hampton hotels, you'll need your own laptop. Most have a business center where you can use a PC for a fee.

Might want to contact these guys...they have a US office: http://www.gastec.ws/contactdetails.htm About this: http://www.gastec.ws/productSD40.html

LMAO...you could always keep your foot out of it instead ;) boosthard - you're not going to like the way it runs without a wastegate!

Awww...come on. Just think, fill up with 87 octane, advance timing to 16-18 deg, and drive up a 6% grade...make sure the RPM stays right around 3000 or so. That should take care of the EGR issue ;)

He doesn't care...remember ;) Go ahead and block off the fuel vapor line from the tank (seal it off nice and tight) and you can remove the BVSV and the charcoal canister. Get rid of a bunch of those pesky vac lines around the intake manifold too while you're at it.

More likely the rear u-joint. Could be the rear section of the driveshaft (it's a double tube w/ rubber connecting them).

You can achieve that HP goal on the stock plenum and TB.