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LOL...the million dollar question...I was wondering if someone would ask ;) And...ummm no that's not it. The greater expansion of an aluminum head on a steel block has a lot to do with it though ;) Read this first from ARP's website concerning using a torque wrench to install their...

Current ARP spec using motor oil is 120 Ft/lbs...it's a much better idea to get a couple packs of ARP moly lube. Lower torque (80 ft/lbs), less friction, more accurate torque reading. I do re-torques after 5 complete heat-up/cool-down cycles.

I suspected as such...hence the pic ;) Start from the beginning...disconnect the sensor, ignition on and see what the gauge does.

The problem with the stock cooler circuit is it empties to the pan, so whenever it's working the oil running through it contributes nada, nothing, zilch to pressure in the motor. That's the purpose of the relief valve...keep pressure inside the motor at least 40 psi. That is exactly why one...

Besides, it's very easy to transfer the various EGR parts to a JDM motor.

Look at this:

Yep...you really don't want a higher rated rad cap. Stick with the TSRM range.

And that's why you keep hearing me make this statement over and over and over... You can get around it, but you'll be doomed to running rich throughout the RPM range.

In a general sense, yes. In terms of peak HP, it will depend if the respective ECU cut the EGR off prior to WOT.

LMAO! :runaway:

Making the EGR irrelevant to top HP produced. ;)

And, not having the EGR increases the likelihood of mid-throttle detonation under heavy engine load (like going up a steep grade). The USDM ECU is tuned for it...you can decrease the chance of this happening by adding additional fuel with your SFAC, but then you end up with exactly what figgie...

I really, really wish you guys would stop yanking vac lines, VSVs and whatever else off the motor without knowing what it does. Most of the time in order to "clean up the engine bay"...all this does is self induce a host of problems and for what? Don't get me started on the EGR...taking it off...

Ok...pressure should increase when the vac line is removed, engine running. Check vac line routing to the high temp line pressure up VSV under the intake plenum. Make sure the vac lines are not blocked up. Make sure the VSV is plugged into the harness. Here's how to check the VSV itself...

Nah...he posted on SM last night ;)

He replaced the FPD with an AN fitting on the rail. I was thinking the same thing though (power enrichment), or AFR correction during transition.

I like the small wire clamps JJ suggested...they look better to me and are re-usable. As stated, either will work.

Sorry man, can't help myself :D

Some more info please: -What kind of acceleration we talking about? Pedal floored? Smooth, steady throttle into boost? Easy throttle? What I need to know is does it do this all the time or what driving condition it does do it. - Any codes? - Do you have an AFPR? - Fuel pressure at idle...

And, did you change wires recently?