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It needs to be basically the same design as stock, with the valve in the CC.

This news just in: All of the Wal-Marts across Alabama sold out of ammunition as of yesterday. A reliable source said that one of the purchasers commented that while Russia may have invaded Georgia, they sure as heck ain't taking Alabama.

Not necessary...it's really easy to mount under the plastic wheel well and just route the lines to it.

While I agree with Poodles concerning the need for the CC, you need to use a pressure relief valve that releases at 2-3 psi...might be hard to find one that low. Make very sure the end of the vent line is far, far away from any heat or potential ignition source.

Yep...seen that myself. If that's the case, it's usually too late to prevent a BHG.

No...the 5 torque/loosening cycles applies to a new install. Not new hardware, but when the head is mated to the HG/block. A re-torque is done after the engine has run...I wait for at least complete 5 heat-up/cool-down cycles. To re-torque all you do is just "crack" the bolts or stud nut...

Was there oil on the rear of the engine above the bell housing? Did you replace the gasket under the rear main seal housing? Did you check for cracks in the rear main seal housing? There is a threaded plug on the rear of the motor in the oil channel that runs the length of the block...

70-75 ft/lbs...it's a crap shoot once the HG has been on for that long.

That's the vac modulator for the EGR...yes, that should be a clear "pipe". It looks clogged up...in fact, it looks like it was damaged in the fire. You probably need to replace it. BTW - EGR stuck open at idle RPM can cause a rough idle, but I don't think that is your problem. What...

Ok...that's good ;) You have your fuel pump running directly off battery 12V, triggered by the stock wiring through a relay in the trunk now...correct? How old is the fuel pump and is it a "real" (not a Chinese copy) Walbro? Have you tried to increase fuel pressure on the AFPR? How...

Closed for attitude. It's not our fault your communication skills are on par with a single cell organism. Suggest you read this...you might actually get help if you use it as a guide: Dealing with the "Old School" Guys (or: How to ask smart questions..)

I don't have a SAFC, so I don't know what input from the knock sensor it's looking for. The TCCS documentation I have is not specific as to exactly what level the ECU retards timing due to knock....but, it does look at peak levels.

The knock sensors "listen" for 7 kHz signal. The voltage output is 2-4 volts as this signal peaks.

And that port (circled) is also 1/8" BSPT ;) It's just plugged from the factory.

Ok...let's start over. With the car idling, does the fuel pressure increase when you remove the vac line attached to the AFPR?

:3d_frown: You didn't even look at the TRSM section on how to do this did you? http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=EM&P=22

1/8" BSPT = 0.328" tap drill (minor diameter)...major diameter = 0.383" 1/8" NPT = 0.332" tap drill (minor diameter) The NPT tap drill will not remove all the BSPT threads....the tap drill needs to be > 0.383" To do this as suggested, you will have to go to the next size NPT: 1/4" NPT =...

There are 2 check valves: One in the charcoal canister and one in the gas cap. http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=EC&P=6 These are there to regulate flow to the charcoal canister and prevent vacuum in the tank...the fuel feeding the pump needs to be under...

LOL...against the sand? ;) Not this time.

My statement stands...you're doing an excellent job of proving it.