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I know Checkers/Kragens carries it.

That sounds like the coolant temp gauge sensor...it will not cause this. You might want to replace the vac modulator...it has plastic parts inside too. Judging from the way it looks, there's an excellent chance it's FUBAR.

The cold start injector functions only when the STA (start) signal is present at the ECU. The CSI time switch limits the amount of time it is allowed to function (during start) based on coolant temp...this is designed to prevent flooding. At 20 deg C coolant temp, the time goes to zero. Based...

Ahhh...Kunsan, a true garden spot in the Asian theatre ;) I got to shoot a M-60 years ago...we were doing qualifications with the 9mm and the special ops guys were training next range down. Kinda wandered on over and they let me have a go. Damn nice weapon...a heck of a lot more accurate...

The AEM will work well. Just get a new TB as discussed earlier...the homemade one you have is out of round. I doubt you can fix it without a new body.

The Right Stuff is very good too and easy to apply. The TSRM says to use FIPG.

Grim - it's not that the ECU is ignoring the KS. Timing is retarded a max of 10 deg due to the KS. The TCCS looks at 3 levels of knock: Strong, medium, and weak. It retards appropriately for each...that leads me to believe the threshold is 4V, but the book is not specific.

The Tial diagram shows the lower hooked up to manifold pressure, the upper hooked up the the EBC to modulate manifold pressure. There is also a vent between the EBC valve and the WG.

ISCV won't throw a code. It wouldn't hurt to remore it and clean it...and, the condition of the check valve under it (not clogged up) Check for vac leaks.

Red - Should be fine. Make sure you clean out the metal shavings really well...don't want them getting to your bearings. Use tapping fluid or oil to lube the NPT tap...take your time, the block is fairly hard. It would be a lot easier to use the adapter Slow posted above though ;)...

What the dowel trick will tell you is if your damper is significantly out of phase...i.e. the rubber's twisted up internally.

That is true...a bit of a gumby method to be sure, but you can look at the damper index where it peaks on the way up and keep rotating the damper till it starts down. In the middle is a good estimate. Ahhh see the pic now...could be the angles, but the damper index looks like it's to the...

I wouldn't do that...it would require longer bolts. More susceptible to shear.

Give the AFPR increase a try. Fuel cut is not based on the TPS...it is based on what the AFM is reading for ingested air. However, you may have a flat spot in your TPS (specifically VTA)...fairly common on an old TPS at that RPM range due to it being a normal highway cruise. The RPM...

would spacers / longer bolts be too weak? Yes. Don't want to do this on the differential end...not a balance issue, but strength issue. would a 1/2 alum 1 piece spacer throw the balance off? In the middle of the shaft? You can use this shaft, but the splines will not fully engage on...

;)

Looking at post #2, left two pics...both gears look slightly to the right of the back plate index mark. Where is your crank damper index pointing? Did you confirm #1 piston at TDC? Remove the plug and put a small dia wooden dowel in the hole. Move the crank damper in both directions until...

Poodles - I feel your pain ;) KpSupra - Have you done a compression check...engine warm?

What are the AFR's (numbers) before the stumble and after? Have you tried to add fuel via the AFPR...say to 35 psi?

Where is your valve timing (cam gears) as compared to the previous 1J set-up that detonated? Refresh my memory on your cam specs...specifically what's on the cam card. You are absolutely certain you have no boost leak...it could be one that shows itself above 10-12 psi. Do you have your...