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LOL...just because a product is offered for sale doesn't make it a good idea ;) And, last I looked, a BHG was pretty common on the 7M. Pretty sure detonation will cause that too. The JDM engine ECU is tuned for no EGR...USDM is tuned for it there. With an EGR, inert exhaust gas...

:nono: http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/

Might want to make sure the harness to the tranny is connected ;)

Take a pic of how you have the catch can routed.

Please don't do that...fuel components are not something to gumby rig. I have an FPD and I'm in town...PM me your address and I'll mail it to you in a couple days...for free.

What in the heck you talking about Greg? My SP61GT turbo is oil cooled only...I didn't block off the coolant "to have less strain on the cooling system". There is no provision for coolant on the turbo at all. This is what I did to seal off the coolant lines form the motor. If there is...

Sure the cable's not snapped?

There is also a specific torque sequence for the caps.

A small crack around the WG port should be ok. The problem is when there are cracks inside the exhaust feed on the snail side of the turbo housing. I would take a close look there...the carbon inside hides the crack. These will get worse...the housing is basically useless. Upgraded CT26...

This is a much better way to set-up the cooler circuit. ;) http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=62838

^^^ Ding Ding Ding! Hook both sensors at the same boost pressure location/source Jay.

I have one...well made, balanced DS. Read this review: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=58990

Fixed it for you ;)

Install sequence. Crack, then re-torque one at a time.

Like IJ said, it's not that critical on a Torsen. I would use a 75W-90 without friction modifier...the Ford gear oil would work just fine (among others).

Yeah Jay and you NEED your beauty sleep if you're gonna post a pic of yourself ;)

True, but neither is a head bolt re-torque ;) All you do is remove the top cover and check deflection on the top and sides of the belt. Any excess and you readjust the idler pulley. Simple and easy to do. Preventive measure in case the belt stretches...I had a new OEM belt jump a tooth...

Don't forget to re-tension the belt after 500 miles or so...easy to do. Make sure the idler pulley is not over torqued (spec 36 ft/lbs) either...it can actually pull the #1 cylinder wall forward a couple thou if it is. You have to be anal working on this engine...it has a bad habit of...

Excellent...good to hear it's running with no issues :) BTW - the 7M is a non-interference motor...it's not possible to get the "tink" of valve to piston contact ;)

I'm beginning to suspect the WG spring Jay.