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Ummmm...NO! The PCV requires TB vacuum to function correctly...and, it needs to be from the PCV port on the TB on a stock system. Plumb it anywhere else without a check valve and you will have a boost leak. Also, the ISCV does not use vacuum...it uses metered air from the accordion hose.

You might want to consider a grade 10.9 ;)

Yes...to meet the RA spec for the MHG.

Sounds like your gauge temp sensor, sensor wire, or the gauge is a bit off if the 180 deg fan probe actuates the fans ;) Only way to find out would be to measure using a known good sensor and accurate gauge.

You need a hardened bolt...metric grades are different than SAE. Strength wise: Grade 5 = Metric 8.8 Grade 8 = Metric 10.9 Metric has an additional (stronger) grade above what you normally see for SAE...Metric 12.9 made from alloy steel.

Good decision ;) That's plenty of time/heat cycles. You want to follow the TSRM pattern, use a breaker bar (not a torque wrench) and just "crack" the head bolt counter clockwise...that is the 1st movement you detect (1/4 turn max). Then re-torque to 72 ft/lbs...you can go to 75 ft/lbs if...

Well, you're not "ripping the entire motor apart" to do a re-torque...at least I hope you don't ;) The question you have to ask yourself is: Do you want to risk doing the entire HG job again in 6 months?

I assume the thermo switch triggers a relay to active the fans at that temp...Do the fans come on when it's warmed up?

Yes it's normal to burn a bit of oil until the rings seat. You should change it and the filter very soon for the reason you said...the assembly lube and other associated crap is flushed. Change the oil and filter again at the 500 mile point...same straight 30W. Go to a syn oil at 1500 miles...

Yep...I matched it up to the rear seal housing. Fit perfect ;)

Red Line contains PEA...slightly more than the GumOut I mentioned. It's also more expensive ;) Using water and a needle valve T'ed to a vacuum line will work just as well ;) Does a nice job cleaning carbon out of combustion chambers...ever seen how the cylinder with a BHG looks clean?

Got the same gasket in my OEM kit ;)

You'll need '89+ foglights if you want the stock appearance.

Don't forget to re-torque those stock head bolts after 5 complete warm-up/cool down cycles. Change the oil and filter now...do it again after 500 miles. Feels good to have that done huh ;)

Seafoam is essentially solvent...not a very effective cleaner when mixed with gasoline. Honestly, it's crap...save your $$$. Here's the MDS showing what's in it: http://www.seafoamsales.com/pdf/MSDS_SFTT_US.pdf Those products containing Polyether Amine (PEA) are effective though. Read...

My AEM docs (30-1130) only shows 2 PW outputs...there are 2 additional (#7 & #8) injector outputs that you might be able to adapt. On the TCCS, you can get a PWM commercially that will scale from minus to full output based on voltage rise from a MAP sensor?

Perfect! A picture is worth a 1000 words ;) Thank you! figgie - do you think it would be possible to build a PWM circuit that would allow what's in post #21 above on a stock TCCS? (i.e. scale pump output with boost or RPM)

LOL...GOOD reason ;) The MSD switches require a RPM module...I didn't see one at a low enough RPM to be useful.

I think I understand what he's doing now: I think he's using the SSR controlled by the AEM as a simple PWM to control stock voltage/current at lower engine load up to 31% where pump output goes to 100% (stock) output...actually lowers pump output at 31% or less load. Then he's using the BAP...

I don't think so...at least using the switch over point in the TCCS. If you could build a PWM circuit that accepts an analog input (say Ne or Boost psi) to control pump speed, it might be made to work.