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Well, I was gonna say if you were sending your block out, you could borrow the torque plate, but either way, doesn't sound like you need it.

Well, i dont believe that factory motors were torque plate bored/ honed, but the distortion is very small without it, and isnt as much of an issue with cast pistons and lower power levels. Are you sending a block out for work soon?

Good job. Did you buy a full rebuild kit?

I dont really understand putting a 1jz in a skyline, rather than an rb26 or rb28, unless the rb's are simply unavailable. To me, its like pulling a 351 cleveland out of a mustang in order to fit a 350 chevy motor in it. Either way though, it's a great car. Good luck with the wiring job.

You can fit the washers? Then fit the washers.

Do you mean how detrimental is it Not to use the plate? Not that much. You will usually end up with a slightly out-of-round cylinder without it, and therefore a slight compression loss, and oil consumption, but again, very slight. However, it becomes more of an issue when you go past 500+ hp. I...

Like Radiod said-No Lipp AFM without larger injectors. You'll lean out. Use the turbo with the exhaust, and get an elbow. You will like how it feels, and should get at least 2-3psi for free.

Whatup Cramer?

Welp. I didn't want to spend the money, but I'm going to anyway... Next purchase, torque plate from SIP racing. I just don't want to skimp now, and regret it later.

Lol. Sorry, but two posts ago, you say" Smell something, and it seems to be overheating." Next post is- "Hey everybody- I'm going 1JZ!" LMAO!!! I wonder what happened... ANYWAY, Good looking car, and good luck with the swap.

Are you using new piston rings when you put it back together? Regardless, I might suggest honing the cylinders just a bit, unless the crosshatch is still very visible.

:rofl::rofl: I have that same servo issue as well, JJ

Agreed. I suppose that Pauters and Carillo's are at the top of the food chain, but Cunningham/ Eagle will do what we need. I had heard that Eagles should be sized prior to install; perhaps somebody has gotten a few that needed some adjustment. As for slap, I think it's a minor issue with any...

Good to see that you're back to work on this.

I chose Wiseco because A: they were ~$200 cheaper than CP & lighter than Ross, and B: the skirts are coated and the pin bore is offset to reduce piston slap. That part may be true of other pistons out there, but i havdn't heard of any. My power goal is ~400RWHP to start. I am overbuilding this...

Block, crank, piston, rods and front timing cover have been brought to the machine shop. They will be ordering the main studs for me. Hopefully, I'll have some nice engine pics for you all in a couple of weeks.

That isn't a power steering pump. :P

Got my Wiseco's the other day, and now I'm headed for the machine shop with the new block/ rods/ pistons.

The problem with the buttons no staying pressed in is due to the individual push contacts inside the unit. They are all topped by a stamped steel sleeve, which holds a spring loaded brass slide bar underneath, which has small tabs which in turn fit into plastic detents whithin each individual...

I'm pretty sure that all the aftermarket upgrades are steel, not aluminum. The included spacers are used so that you can set the proper preload by incrementally adding to the collars effective thickness(trial and error) till it is correct. It takes a bit of assembly/ disassembly, but you...