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Sorry sorry sorry. When an old lady runs into the first car that passes by, when she picks up her car from her LAST accident...time for the DMV to consider taking her liscense away. If I were to get a new car, I really think I'd look at the Scion FR-S. Just sayin.

Nice. I'll have to try that polishing job.

Looks great. Scary how close your actual build is to mine, as far as parts choices are concerned. Dunno if I will rock the gold tape, though...

Finally picked up my block/ crank from the machine shop: Block- decked, linebored, honed: Crank, polished, and balanced with the rotating assembly. New squirter bolts: Also done, was a check/ resize of the rods, and the machinist ordered/ supplied the ARP mains, and all bearings as well...

Honestly, a lighter flywheel doesn't do a whole lot in my opinion. I have one in my 7mgte, and I had one on my 7nge. Didn't notice much change.

Very nice. Cant wait for the first start video.

If it were me, driving 95% of the time on the street, I would use a sprung hub disc. That shudder/clunk might be a warp in the flywheel, if it was overheated... OR it could be looseness in a drivetrain component, OR a bad ujoint/cv...OR a crack in the rear subframe...OR a bad rear spherical...

Leakdown or compression test after rebuild might not be too conclusive, if you have honed the cylinders and/ or replaced the rings. They need time to seat. PS- If I was only pushing 12psi or less on a stock turbo, I'd probably go with a composite hg and ARP's, especially if you suspect a less...

Did you check for coolant in the oil, or oil in the coolant?

LOL. Nice. PS- The black guy does make it in Armageddon.

I ALWAYS dab petroleum jelly on the opening of the fuel rail, rather than the injector O-ring. I've never once had an injector leak. Check for sharp edges around those openings, as Poodles suggests.

^ this. A block of wood is a great tool.

Damn. Thats a good price. Mine is: Block checked and tanked Linebore mains Overbore and hone cylinders Deck Check and polish crank Balance crank Size rods ~ $1400. This will include all bearings, and arp mains.

You can get brand new upper control arms for pretty cheap.

No, looks like i'll probably be sitting at my computer, ordering the Spec 2+ clutch when the apocalypse hits. Knowing that i won't complete it before armageddon is a bit disappointing, but at least working on the Supra keeps me from getting too down about it.

How could it possibly have rod knock if all the rod clearances were checked during install? Is it making good oil pressure? Or is it possibly piston slap?

I would lay a head gasket over that head surface, to see if any of that corrosion will impinge upon the sealing surfaces. If it does, you either gotta shave it more, or toss it.

Yeah, with what little we have to go by, I would agree with Planemos.

Got my Arizone performance oil supply kit, just a couple of shots to show comparison:

Look at the TSRM to troubleshoot some of this stuff, like testing the fuel pump- it's easy. And look at the TEWD to determine what harnesses those are, I'm not sure.