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Yeah, i thought you were gonna start it, you co@ktease.

If you're just going for power and not 'wow' factor, i would stick with a single turbo. Way too many plumbing hassles.

Yes, but i believe its only one of the two cams thats different. You said you're going twin turbo- are you using two ct26's?

Well spoken, sir. I respect a man that laughs at himself after a goof. I sometimes have stomach pains from all the laughing i do at myself. When i read this post, i was thinking the same thing as Poodles, as when i reinstalled mine, i tried it upside down as well, and had the interference.

Check your crank pulley. If it loosens up, it will sound exactly like rod knock. And i disagree with just about everybody on the bearing replacement. It will NOT be a gauranteed fix for rodknock. If you pull the old bearings and find a few that are damaged, you still dont know the condition of...

Looking good.

Well, i suppose thats completely true, but the core of mine didn't seem much smaller than the larger random technology cat it replaced. It just didn't possess the oval casing of the former unit. Plus i wanted a metal substrate rather than ceramic, because allegedly, they last a good deal longer...

I ask this, because i recently rebuilt the transmission in my 93 trooper, and every time i took it out of park or neutral, it would die. The engine wouldn't stumble and 'give out', it would shut off. Found out that i had left an external ground wire disconnected, that controlled the internal...

Yeah. I forget who mentioned it recently, but the stock rods are quite well engineered, and were comparable to domestic big block rods. Ive never seen a bent rod or broken rod, unless its because it went through the side of the block due to catastrophic rod knock/ bearing failure first. And...

Does your car run in neutral as well as park?

Plus, if you have forged pistons for a 450hp goal, you dont need to cryo treat. You already have the added strength.

Well, he said that the website incorrectly listed it as in stock, but they were actually being machined at the time.

Welcome to saturday. Did you get it tested?

Well, i finally heard back, and he said they weren't in stock, so he asked me if i wanted to wait, or refund. I said i'd rather get the refund, so that i could buy a few other items, including a head gasket.

I figure as much, Zach. And that's another reason why i dont mind cancelling my purchase.

Its a good idea, Orion, but that all hinges on me actually receiving the torque plate. I realized about 24hrs after i ordered it, that SIP racing was run by Rich S., whom has had numerous complaints about long wait times and even failure to ship orders. I have tried to call the phone number 4...

That's correct. But it is possible to find shops that have a 2JZ plate.

Listen to JJ. And put in a cat. I used one of these in my exhaust and it cleaned up my numbers. http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-Thunderbolt-Metallic-Catalytic-Converter-High-Flow-Stainless-Steel-/140864264535?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item20cc2a1957&vxp=mtr

I don't think there's a "better" choice, just what fits your engine's sensors/ecu. I'm pretty sure a few of the pinouts change, and thus you can't use a yellow plug ecu on a grey plug harness, and vise-versa.

Ah! Forgot you were doing the 2JZ. Nah, it takes a different plate. BUT, a 2JZ plate is alot more common at machine shops than a 7M. A 7M torque plate is about as common as a Chinese 'fro pick.