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And how will that compensate for the increased CR of GE pistons? You're going to completely reshape the combustion chambers instead of buying pistons that will drop CR down to where it needs to be? Any idea of the cost/skill level for that kind of work? Seriously, stop pulling this kind of...

You thought wrong ;)

Yes you can with the AEM...iirc, the base setting is set to the OEM temp. You have to change it. Even if you do, there are other issues with injector duration and timing advance corrections...the stock TCCS and AEM (depending on tuner settings) use THW as an input. Coolant temps below 190...

A 160 deg stat is not going to make the engine run cooler. It will delay the time it takes for the coolant to get to ops temp (~190-200 degs) and the ECU will stay in warm-up enrichment (temps < 176 degs) longer as a result.

A MHG is what you want, but it requires a very smooth block/head deck...the HKS Stopper is without a doubt the best. Second is the bead type, HKS or Cometic. The bore will depend on if you go with oversize pistons and the thickness will depend on how much material is removed form the block and...

And why would you want to do 3mm oversize pistons? You really need to do more research before you start asking questions. Specifics are necessary...this broad, wide open (and kinda clueless) type of thread is just going to lead you off on 10 different tangents. $$$ are a big factor...

And this thread is done.

Hopefully, neither (at least for a TB) ;)

Just so long your going to use Amsoil ASL vs XL. ;) The Amsoil Ea filters are pretty damn good, just expensive for my taste.

Doesn't look like the brown emulsification from a BHG to me ;) Steam out of the exhaust on a cold, humid day is normal too...one of the major byproducts from combustion is water vapor anyway. You planning on changing the oil/filter in the near future?

If the inside diameter does not restrict air flow from the TB to the manifold, use it.

Unlimited budget? If not, you need to put constraints on the question you're asking because you can spend $4-5K on just machine work ;)

Read this: http://www.autoshop101.com/ Specifically #24 - Engine Controls #1 - Input Sensors.pdf One thing to keep in mind: Code 34, turbo pressure signal, triggers a fail-safe function of the TCCS...fuel injection is stopped. It's one and only input is the Ks signal from the AFM. In...

It's an AFM on the 7M, not a MAF...the turbo uses a Karman Vortex type that senses volume and converts it into a pulse electrical frequency for the ECU to use. Density is not unmetered air...think of it as more air in a given space. For this type sensor, denser air will produce a higher...

The system is based on coolant temp...OAT is as cold as it will get after a sit. Read post #3.

Iridium's are fine so long you don't run at expended periods of boost...they can glow plug. The ones you listed should work, but are 2 steps colder than stock heat range...good for higher boost applications...not so good for a stock or mildly mod'ed motor. The NGK iridium part # for the...

It does do that, but requires a tool similar to a tap. And it's called.....a chaser! :biglaugh: It deburs the threads and preps the hole for the longer thread length studs.

The TSRM ;)

dot, dot, dot...dash, dash, dash...dot, dot, dot ;)

Your local dealer is not going to give you that price...call Champion Toyota: 800-327-2087 Ask for parts Ask for Jeff Watson.