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ISCV flange welded on the bottom of the FFIM...no CSI (it doesn't get that cold in Phoenix ;)) I would use the ISCV (or something like it) even with a stand alone....gives you the ability to control idle better. If you go speed density (like with a MAFT Pro), you simply put a filter on the...

Like I said...the TSRM calls for FPIG or its equivalent (I use Permatex "The Right Stuff) and it does a fine job of taking care of imperfections in the pan sealing surfaces. A gasket is not spec'ed for the oil pan....they have a tendency to leak ;)

You should use a 2000 F deg rated ceramic coating...unless you want it to flake/crack ;)

Perhaps...he may have used motor oil for lube too. The torque specs are significantly higher when you use motor oil and you can't mix the specs when you use moly. If a person would just take the time to read the ARP spec sheet.......

Slightly...and, No.

No...it will not. The TSRM calls for FIPG or equivalent.

Coolant temp at 100 deg C. With the VSV not connected to vac, you basically had the FP up at all times. You do need to figure out why it's not holding FP to TSRM spec ;) What's stumping me is the lean condition when it does this. That's why I was leaning toward the AIT or HAC...

Is the Cometic a MHG? ;)

It *should* hold pressure for 5 minutes at 21 psi or above once shut down. If it doesn't, it can cause start problems...that is not the case here. The coolant lines are there to prevent icing...conditions are low OAT and high humidity. The TB is the primary concern for this situation. It...

MHG's don't compress...at least enough to make a difference. They are made out of steel after all. ;)

You are kidding ...right? The TSRM calls for rest pressure to be 21 psi or above for at least 5 minutes. Does the fuel "boil" after this time once pressure bleeds off?...what happens to residual heat after 5 minutes? Does it just go away? Come on...get a grip. This statement is so far...

And, an MHG can only be reused if the old viton coating is stripped off...you have to use copper spray (between layers too) as a replacement. I would be leery reusing any paper gaskets. I would have a valve job done on the new head...including the seals.

One at a time, in the TSRM sequence, crack the bolt/stud counter clockwise (barely moves) with a breaker bar...then re-torque to ARP spec or slightly above. If you have already exceeded spec, stop where you previously had it. You're welcome guys ;)

Kenny - No, I would not. Studs are not subject to the twisting stress bolts are...the torque spec is higher as a result. If you do a re-torque (which I would do), do not go higher.

You will have to remove the ISCV and disassemble it...3 screws hold the ISC motor to the housing. Carb cleaner is fine...clean the housing and the valve plunger on the motor. there's a thin o-ring that mates between the motor and housing...be careful with it. You *might* need a new gasket for...

Like I said...the bolts are limited to 75 ft/lbs on an aluminum head. If you took the time to read the instruction sheet that the bolts come with, you would know that ;) The reason is to account for the greater thermal expansion of aluminum on a steel block. More torque is not...

Wow! That piston took a beating :eek: Suggest you use a Wix filter vs a Toyota...much better conventional filter. Good call on the Trasko ;) Some info on converting to a full flow, thermostat controlled cooler circuit? http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=62838 BTW -...

Above thread moved to Group Buy ;)

"No Friggin Idea" ;)

It's not likely you have a vapor lock problem grim. One other thing to check is you might have a sticky ISCV...have you ever cleaned it?