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Sure you routed/installed the TB cable correctly? The TB plate should be full closed at the idle position. If so, unplug the TPS and see if it still does it.

What kind of thermostat? This looks like a stuck/sticky stat....especially if it happens most of the time on a cold engine. I've gotten bad ones brand new out of the box. I test mine now before I install ;)

Don't clean the AFM electronics, it's a sure fire way to trash the module...especially using carb or brake cleaner. The "MAF" cleaner you find at parts stores are just as bad. The 7M Karman Vortex sensor uses a foil mirror...any of these products destroy it. You can remove the electronics and...

Spool - I thought you didn't have squirters? The metal could have got in the pump and is interfering with the relief valve or the squirters. Since you shimmed the pump, I would suspect the squirters. Arz did a test on used squirter bolts and they varied all over the place. Opening early is...

That's well with in spec...actually damn good for an un-shimmed oil pump. So you did get a 5 psi pressure drop across the RX-7 cooler. Did you get a thermostat for the new TruCool?

Matt - The turbo fan clutch is plenty...a Tundra clutch to pull more air is not a good idea and it just might be the same as the stock turbo clutch anyway. If you want to keep temps from spiking, the solution is to increase coolant capacity...i.e an bigger radiator. The problem I see with...

:D

What's it doing now exactly with the new cooler Grim? I starting to suspect the squirters....

Try this test: - Pull the EFI fuse - Set the motor at near TDC...damper index in the "15-10" range - Remove the #1 spark plug - Get a small diameter 12" wooded dowel that will easily fit in the spark plug hole...insert it - Move the damper clockwise to the "zero"...the dowel should get...

And, exactly when did an '88 Supra come with a 1J or 2J motor? (especially when posted in the 7M-GTE Tech Section) Nomad - If you PM Shaeff, I'm pretty sure he still makes a quality knock sensor re-wire kit ;)

Keep in mind that engine knock does not cause a code 52. It's either the wiring or the sensor(s).

Or, just put a rubber nipple over each one ;)

You want 1/2" NPT for the fitting on the adapter and remote filter head. 3/8" is too small IMO.

You just about have to use an OEM hose for the crankcase to cam cover.

Fuel cut is based on the volume of air that the AFM senses and transmits to the ECU. The stock boost gauge or it's sensor has nothing to do with it.

TBN = Total Base Number. This tells you the remaining ability of the oil to neutralize acidic byproducts of combustion. If everything else is good, you use this number to determine when to change the oil.

If you removed those VSVs, the vac lines leading to them have to be capped. That also means you do not have an EGR...that is not a good idea.

I assume this is a 7M? I'm curious...what kind of air filter do you have and when was it changed? I have never seen GC shear that much with that mileage...that is ?W-20 viscosity. Since GC is a PAO oil, it does not have the VII content you see in other oils that can be a cause of this...

Red Line MT-90 to be exact ;)

There's a steel "vac line tree" below the intake manifold...the hot start VSV and EGR VSV attach to it (among others). A gasket leak is also a strong possibility. One thing is sure though, you have an air leak since the car did not die with the ISCV/PCV blocked. The early ('87-'88) TBs had...