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Should be no confusion...the info in that thread pretty much came straight from the ARP link I posted ;)

The block adapter will need to be a 3/4-16 thread.

http://www.mkiiitech.com/forum/showthread.php?t=37

ARP bolts are 75 ft/lbs (on an aluminum head) using moly for lube. This is a good read...especially the "Using a Torque Wrench" link. Note the number of tightening/loosening cycles ARP recommends to burnish the bolt threads and get an accurate torque...

You have to plug the ISCV line AND the PCV line...with both plugged it should die. Does you TB have the idle bypass adjustment screw on top? Assuming the TB plate fully closes at idle, the leak would have to be after it. The vac lines are a common source.

70-75 ft/lbs of torque using the TSRM sequence.

Setrab oil cooler clone of unknown quality. Looks like the adapters are an Earls or Canton clone...same comment on quality. To use the lines you need to know the length and where you are going to mount the cooler.

It would help to get specifics on the oil you are using...sorry, but I don't have that memorized for all the people I deal with on that subject here. The wear metals are at the upper range or a bit high, but overall not that bad. I would suspect the same issue as above...dirt/dust getting...

Pretty sure thay have a complete head gasket kit...it includes a HG, cam seals, CPS O-ring, exhaust manifold/intake, etc. It will save you a lot of time and re-do's later ;)

I've got one coated in ceramic chrome I'll sell ya ;) I only have the 2 port thermostat housing though. Got a nice P/S reservoir & bracket too:

And you couldn't pay me to put a HKS mushroom filter on my car. ;)

When coolant temp is greater than ~100 deg C, the ECU signals the VSV to open to the atmosphere. This increases fuel pressure...the same as if you removed the vac line from the FPR. The surging idle is the real problem here ;)

If you cut the jiggle valve off the thermostat, it helps the system rid itself of air.

I use copper spray on an OEM HG...both sides, it fills in imperfections on the block/head. A couple coats on each side and let dry till tacky. Lay it on the block using the index pins to align...be careful, you get one chance to do this right with the copper spray coat on the HG. The head...

This should answer a lot of your questions: Installing a Full Flow, Thermostat Controlled Oil Cooler & Remote Filter

You'll have to call...I don't know the cost. Regardless of cost you really, really want the Toyota gasket...it will save you a huge chunk of time down the road. Pay attention to the torque spec for the cooler bolts...the holes in the aluminum head can strip if you're not careful. I apply...

The OEM EGR cooler gasket is made from composite graphite (same stuff as the OEM head gasket) for a reason. A couple guys here recently used the paper type Felpro gaskets and had to replace due to a leak. The heat destroyed it. If you think high temp silicone can handle it, go ahead. When...

In addition to checking the PCV hoses on top of the engine, take a look at the big hose running from the block to the driver's side cam cover (behind the alternator). There should be no kinks in any of the hoses. It's not a bad idea to take a look at the PCV orifice in the TB. It's pretty...

^^^ The only thing I'll add is that post was for a guy that had a very high probability of bearing damage...hence the 5W-40 Euro oil recommendation. In this case where the bearings are likely OK, I would stick with a 0W or 5W-30 oil for the final fill. As usual, German Castrol would be my choice.

No, silicone can't take the heat the EGR cooler is subject to. You want an OEM EGR cooler gasket...get one at the dealer.