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Get a 190 stat (OEM or Stant SuperStat)...cut the jiggle valve off before you install it. That will help rid the system of air. I would also test the new stat in a pot of boiling water to see when it opens ;)

That's a later model TB...no bypass screw, so that one's out. What are you using to supply vac to the BVSV on the thermostat housing? Or, have you deleted the charcoal canister too? See if you can get your hands on a smoke machine to rule out any other vac/air leaks.

Me too ;) Might be something you want to look at.

Yes...that is also a possibility. Did you use a new set of grommets/o-rings (3 pieces per injector)? The injectors should rotate smoothly when installed with the fuel rail torqued down. What are you using to control fuel...the MAFT? Is there a provision in it for selecting 550cc...

That is THE WAY to find a pirate air leak. ;) I would use that before you yank the manifold again. Can you hear your ISCV step open when you shut the motor down? Might want to check the MAFT programming to be sure it's not screwing with one of your ECU inputs and that it's reading the...

"Detonation" ;)

Blocking the ISCV only will cause it to die, but not immediately. Blocking both should cut off all air to the plenum. If it doesn't die immediately, but stumbles with an RPM drop, then dies...it's likely the PCV orifice in the TB is clogged. The TB orifice needs to be cleaned periodically...

The IC needs to have the same size inlet/outlet as the piping or it will not make a lot of difference in flow.

Didn't realize you were running SD. Block the ISCV and PCV fittings off at the respective fittings. Then block off the other fittings on the intake manifold...brake booster and big vac fitting on the front feeding the "tree" on the bottom. See what happens. You removed the EGR correct? Is...

x2 ;)

Reading that post gave me a headache :3d_frown:

Try doing this again to see if the engine dies. It would be worthwhile to see if the accordion hose is sealed and all the hoses connected properly from the AFM to the turbo inlet. Reset the ECU by pulling the EFI fuse....recheck for codes afterward.

That's the way I understand it...30 psi base FP + 15 psi boost = 45 psi FP. It's the ECU that cuts fuel at at a predetermined Ks value. I'm not familiar enough with the way the SAFC works to tell you how much you can clamp the AFM signal. Pretty sure you can raise fuel cut though. The...

It's Ford friction modifier...it allows an LSD to "slip" for proper operation. I would start with one oz. Red Line 75W-90 is another good choice and it has the friction modifier already in it. On a high mileage LSD, you may get clatter with Red Line.

The Ford LSD oil is a 75W-90 and you will need the LSD additive. On high mileage differentials, I think it's a better choice.

Actually you can re-use a MHG...the old factory Viton coating has to be stripped off though, including between the layers. When you re-install, you use copper spray (between layers too) to replace the Viton coating that acts as the seal on a new MHG. Personally, I would pull the motor...

Most AFPR's like this one increase FP on a 1:1 ratio with boost. This one specs it in GPH per 3 psi increase. You'll have to contact a SX Tech to confirm. That is the hot start FP up VSV...it works by opening to the atmosphere to increase FP when coolant temps are above a certain value. It...

An HKS MHG is pretty picky about deck surface smoothness. That's for both the head AND block decks.

Here's what a sticky stat does: First start in the morning (or after a long sit), you drive 5-6 miles and the temp gauge rises to normal temp. Suddenly, the temp rises pretty quick all the way to near max. You pull over to take a look and it drops (stat decides to open). When it does...

Info on the TPS...perhaps a high idle (not 5K RPM though) with it unplugged: http://www.mkiiitech.com/forum/showthread.php?t=882 TB linkage per above? Just to warn you, my patience expires pretty quick when a guy does not confirm what I say to do or answer what I ask ;)