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And none of them will be "old school" guys...another "clean-up the engine bay" crusade that results in a host of self induced problems. I'll be watching with amusement ;)

Nickle (1600 deg F) anti-seize on the threads....don't go nuts with it. Dielectric grease on the ceramic/tips is fine.

The EGR functions above idle to ~4500 RPM. The ECU is tuned for it...timing and fuel. With no exhaust gas in the combustion chambers, temps go up and additional air takes it's place....you can easily go lean. Under load is where you can detonate (up hill), especially if you go into boost.

The fuel pump needs the pressure differential (~2 psi) the charcoal canister provides to prevent cavitation. The 1JZ canister works exactly the same and can be mounted under the rear wheel well under the plastic liner. I highly suggest going with a standalone EMS if you're not going to run an...

I see you're on a "clean-up the engine bay" crusade :3d_frown: I very rarely see these turn out very well. Right now, with no charcoal canister, you've either eliminated the positive pressure on the tank (vented gas cap) or you're venting gas vapor some where in the forward area of the car...

Not that it's a huge difference, but the bottom fitting on the BVSV goes to the charcoal canister ;) Rennat is correct on the AFPR. The vac port on top of the TB have an orifice before the TB plate for a reason. The rear fitting is for the EGR (pre-TB)...it cuts vac off from the EGR...

It's the mice that nested in your heater core...you've cooked them now :D

It's more of what level of HP the engine is built for. Fully built motor for the 400-450 HP level and above, I'd go with -10 lines. Plus a few other modifications to the oil system ;)

A 5x8 will work...you need enough surface to use a circular motion as you move down the length of the deck. It depends on the machined finish...if the machine shop used a CBN cutter, 10/Green will be all you need. If it's a std finish (you can feel slight ridges with a finger nail), I'd...

Paint thinner or acetone works well. Lapping plates are available at McMaster-Carr...that and diamond paste makes short work of getting the RA to spec. ;) A flat head/block deck is just as or more important to ensure a good MHG seal.

To do it correctly (insure a good seal) the block will need to be decked in addition to the head. The only difference with a Cometic is the surface RA spec is a bit higher...50 RA vs 30 RA for a HKS. Installing any MHG (including a Cometic) on a block that has not been decked is a crap shoot...

Pretty sure Grim was referring to the #3 spark plug wire, not the harness wire to the igniter.

When the ECU pulls timing due to knock, there is no CEL. You will see a loss of power...the curve will flatten or dip on the dyno graph, but not like the "hammock" in post #1 (unless you go straight to "strong"). A surge? I don't think that would be due to pulling advance from the knock...

Very bad advice if you're planning on using a USDM ECU...that is unless you want to risk detonating your motor. And, it doesn't do squat to help keep the head cool...it's the opposite. The EGR keeps cylinder temps down.

Wrong section for a 2JZ...thread moved.

Pretty sure the ISCVs are the same ;)

The info on this is a bit vague, but the amount of retard angle depends on if the sensors detect a weak, medium, or strong knock....the amount of retard increases from weak to strong. When knock stops, retard is stopped and timing is advanced by fixed angles a little at a time. Advance...

If you put Red Line in it and it clatters, it's high mileage :D Seriously though, a better phrase is "well worn" and that is a judgement call. If it's seen abuse (autocross, burn outs, etc) or if the oil was never changed, it's probably worn. Under normal city/highway driving and periodic...

http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=36745 ;)