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Really? Care to justify that statement? A couple guys have experienced pressure drops across that cooler using the internal T-stat. If you've shimmed the oil pump for more pressure, it's less of a factor. Plus, the RX-7 cooler is a bear to fit ;)

Yes it would ;) It would be time for a new damper too.

The marks on the CPS shaft line up pretty well, but you are correct, a slight offset may be necessary for the cam helical gear. It depends on how well the exhaust cam timing belt gear is lined up on the cover index. The end result *should* look like the pic. All this assumes the #1 piston...

Stupid fucktard :3d_frown: Did you notice the steam coming out from under the hood at the end ;)

With a Lex AFM? Then I would start out at the low end of the psi range...I run 26-27 psi vac line on.

"Everyone" is wrong...it's another one of those "forum spec's" that's in left field. TSRM spec is 33-40 psi with the vac off...23-30 psi with vac line attached. If you are using stock injectors, suggest you drop FP the 35-36 psi with the vac line disconnected. Attach the line and it should...

It's "brakes" ;)

Sounds like a massive boost leak.

On a 7M, absolutely nothing but cause idle problems. It was removed on the '89+ TBs.

That screw should be fully closed...clockwise all the way in.

The problem is, everyone over oils the filter...more is better, right? Even without over oiling it, oil gets on the sensor...the Karman Vortex AFM uses a photo-coupler to measure vibrations of a thin foil mirror. Any oil will cause a drop in efficiency. I stand by my statement: K&N filters are...

Yeah, and the oil from the K&N contaminates the AFM sensor and the filter doesn't stop dirt from getting in the motor. Useless IMO. If you want to see pics of the AEM DryFlow...they have a website. ;)

Having the TPS un-hooked will cause few issues...perhaps a high idle because the ECU doesn't know when to go into idle control. Might want to read this: http://www.mkiiitech.com/forum/showthread.php?t=882

My condolences for you and your family.

Those are NGK BCPR7ES...yes, should do the trick. Gap at 0.028".

Likely due to the plugs...the AutoLites are 1/8" shorter than the JIC std plugs the 7M uses and can cause arcing between the wires/plug tip. Get NGK coppers...BCPR6ES is the stock heat range plug. You may want to go 1 step colder with BCPR7ES.

The HKS filters are a POS, as are K&N...I'm with the AEM DryFlow crowd ;)

Yes...mix 50/50.

ECU codes?

Ummm...probably not. There's a small 90 deg rubber hose connecting the fitting on the bottom of the water neck (has the thermo housing on it) to the hard line around the block. Suggest you check it.