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Amp CPC is plenty good enough.

Ownership of a tool does not make one competent in its use. Put another way the meter you already have should be adequate if used properly.

^ Some is right, some not. Doesn't matter though since all one can do is replace the sensors, ECU, or fix the wiring. And don't forget code 53...

It's understanding more than experience. Understanding the schematic that is. Voltage drop testing while the ST1 circuit is loaded will accurately identify where your problem is. Not sure I follow about rebuilding the cylinder as it applies only to locking. Not an electrical part.

No. The high impedance is what limits the current. Think of it more as resistance than impedance. Consider yourself corrected...

It couldn't be his switch electrically because he had power to the coil packs and that's the same feed as IGSW. As for the key I didn't mean to be pinpont because I obviously can't be 100 sure but it's a common problem among Toyotas. Several here, including myself, have suffered from it.

Might have something to do with sensing cam position...

Except you'd be wrong. First find where the loss of IG2 is after the switch. Then get a new key made.

You're welcome. @ Nick: :icon_bigg

I was concurring. That said it's clearly not his ignition switch.

From what he's written it looks like the ECU isn't getting +B. No MIL, no +12 to the coil packs, no fuel pump when jumped, ect. The absence of +B is likely because the main relay isn't on which in turn is because there's no power at IGSW. If I were him I'd be focusing on that. There must be +12...

I'm corn-fused. If you're good with electricity why not simply signal trace the relevant circuits using the TWED? Or is there something about the diagrams you don't understand? If so ask. The key coming out means you need a new key...

You'll find me helpful when you're actually trying to help yourself. Not so much otherwise. THA is referenced to E2: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=FI&P=60 That said it's a trim input...its failure doesn't have much impact on how the engine runs. Nor will it set...

e1 is chassis ground vc is 5 volts ks is airflow output in hz tha is air temp e2 is sensor ground Not that I would do it but there's always this: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=FI&P=57

Have you RTFM? Everything you're asking about is in there.

You don't want NS. Fwiw even though they're on the opposite coast I get my Redline stuff from FCP Groton. Cheap, no taxes, free shipping...

Show me where I even imply retardation. I'm simply having some fun with him. He's a big boy...I'm sure he'll get over it. I've tried to help along with others but the problem is he doesn't know what he doesn't know and refuses to listen. As for what he does know knowledge and diagnostic...

Yeah, I guess that wasn't very helpful. Sorry. Here, try this: http://tinyurl.com/ycoavwu

I think you should jack up the radiator cap and roll another car underneath...

^ 1) Whoever told you that is clueless. 2) Your car is broken.