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Next time just crank it with the plugs in...

Code 11 aside people sure are quick to blame the EFI system when in fact most of the time it's innocent.

^ This

Merci!

OP: Good point. No way anyone could be more competent than you. kidd: load and speed are the afm and cps.

What, there aren't any mechanics in mattoon, Il?

Vf can be at either end and you'll still be at 14.7 afr. It's not about what the mixture is but how hard and in which direction the system is working to get it right.

It wouldn't. Neither would the TPS. All the system needs to run the engine near normal is load and speed.

None of those issues will prevent spark. Perhaps you should forget OBD of any flavor and fall back onto basic troubleshooting techniques...

Beaded? Nicely done. Just bought two new filters myself. $20 for the pair.

As the former SME here I was once at the pointy end of the spare...

I understood perfectly and answered the question twice. Apparently you missed it both times. Here's an idea: now that everything is working fine you can unplug it and see for yourself. This, while not entirely accurate, is closest to the way it works.

Flow same. Velocity increased. Not a good thing...

^ No

^ He has codes. That makes you rong :icon_razz

Crack me up. That is so you...

Idle is closed loop. The OP states he's rich at partial throttle but doesn't define what he means. Is operation steady state? If so the system should be in fuel control.

The amount of silicone and what it's "alloyed" with is what matters and varies greatly. It's also very important for the application. It's the sole reason I would be hesitant to use these.

Nobody said it wasn't your AFM or associated wiring. After all the code points there. Just that everything you did was useless in verifying it was bad. Put another way if you're not going to troubleshoot the car properly you might as well simply change the thing and hope for the best.

Redline 75w-90 GL-5 is what I used in my diff. MTL in the tranny. Both lasted 22 years of daily driving.