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A "Super Bird"...friend of mine had one of those back in the day. (same color too)

I got the 1st single piece aluminum DS from Shaftmasters...Piratetip got the 1st one for the R-154. Read the reviews here: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=58990 Quality piece...NO vibrations at all...I'm sure a steel single piece will be to the same standard.

Holy crap...24 hours. That decision didn't take long!

Snake oil. And, I'm the guy who has been slapping snake oil down for years...I wrote a lot of the info in "that section". ;)

You take the return line and extend it to a bucket...you will need a helper. Crank the car, run for about 10 sec, and start pouring ATF into the reservoir...turn the steering wheel back and forth a couple times. When the line flow going to the bucket turns bright red, you are done. Hook...

I use brake cleaner and a med bristle paint brush that will fit in the top....repeat as necessary ;)

Check you codes as suggested...I'm betting a code 34 (fuel cut) pops up. if it does, and you have not shimmed the turbo for more boost, you have a boost leak somewhere ;)

Ditto on using Dex III ATF and cleaning the reservoir screen. The PS is self bleeding. Adding a Magnafine inline filter to the return line is a good idea too ;) http://www.emergingent.com/magnefine/order_page.htm

I've never done that, but don't see why it would not work...when you re-use a MHG, you do exactly the same thing. You remove the rivets, clean all the old viton off to bare metal, and re-spray with copper sealant to replace the viton. You would want to remove center layers of the MHG...

Don't use a heat gun...just the opposite. Get some dry ice and apply to the center of the dent. Be careful, you don't want to freeze your fingers ;) It looks like a small crease at the top of the dent...it might not work because of that.

If your temp gauge is at the halfway point from an idle warm-up, I'd check to be sure that new T-stat is not sticking shut. Cut the jiggle valve off it while you're at it and make sure the hole is at 12 o'clock.

Sure there is ;) Stock head height = 116mm deck to cam cover surface Stock block height = 198.5mm deck to crank journal saddle A couple of you guys mught want to read this concerning using a sealer on a new MHG: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=29335

:greddy2:

^^^ Makes sense...the online TSRM is for a 1990 and matches my '89 TSRM ;)

"7M" includes both the NA and turbo...if you can't provide specifics, there is no point in trying to help. In this thread you say it's a 2JZ-GE to T...that is a turbo motor. What is it? http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=86184 One more time...is this a NA or turbo tach...

The NA and turbo FPR's are different...the TRSM shows different pressure ranges for each: http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=FI&P=73 You may or may not have a problem running a NA FPR on a turbo motor...note the ranges overlap w/ vac off and the pressure is higher...

Been said a few times now ;) A fuse is used to protect wiring from a short that would otherwise cause the wire to heat up and burn through...this could easily start a fire. Even an intermittent short will pop a fuse. As stated, you should never "rig" or replace a fuse with a higher Amp...

I have an '89 (grey plug harness), but it has a green plug CPS. It is wired (Harness on left, CPS on right): Red ---> Green Blue---> Red Yellow---> Tan (or white...looks discolored) Black---> Yellow

Not forgotton at all...sometimes folks should be given a second chance ;)

Ummm...wrong. The tachometer signal is generated by the igniter on the turbo motor. Was this an NA to T swap? Edit: I see this is a 2J-GTE on 7M electronics...is this a 7M-GTE igniter? And is the tach gauge from a 7M-GTE cluster? You really need to provide more info vs assuming we...