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Also check the wiring harness in the area of the EGR...mine did this and the EGR tubing melted/shorted the harness.

Also check the wiring harness in the area of the EGR...mine did this and the EGR tubing melted/shorted the harness.

And, want to replace something that may or may not have anything to do with those deficiencies without eliminating the other possibilities...like wiring ;)

Thanks for the really good laugh :biglaugh:

It looks like you circled the cold start injector time switch...hard to tell on your pic. If that is it, the car will run fine without it. Might be a little hard to start though depending on OAT/coolant temp. FYI - the connectors are different for pre-'89 and '89+ cars.

Code 21 is an O2 sensor...41 & 51 is the TPS...there is no CPS code, so I don't know why you would say "that's what the codes said". I can see replacing the TPS and O2 sensor. Replacing the CPS can just induce another problem by not setting cam/CPS timing correctly. I would do as JJ...

Why replace the CPS?

Pull codes now to see if anything changed...I doubt it's the O2 sensor causing the problem you described.

That's due to a tuning competence problem ;) If you are using 550 injectors, the increased flow from those injectors is more than sufficient to compensate for the increased airflow through a Lex AFM at the stock FP (vac on) range. If anything, you will run rich requiring a decrease in FP...

Wrong section...thread moved.

29 psi FP with vac on is about right for FP. The 38-40 psi (assuming vac on) posted above is way too much FP. You could bump the FP to 30-32 psi and see if that helps...the J tube does need to be drilled out or eliminated. An upgraded CT26 can easily make 12 psi boost.

It's the speedo cable...the speed sensor the auto tranny uses is in the gauge cluster speedo. The cable usually breaks in the small angled piece that attaches to the tranny. If the main cable got close to the downpipe and melted inside, that will do it too. Replacing the main cable is a PITA...

You are seriously making my head hurt...and, you seriously do not know what you're talking about. Fuel cut is in no way related to the boost gauge sensor...the volume of air through the AFM determines it. All of this was previously stated. You do not have a clue on this issue...please...

Grim - Yep, post #41 http://www.supramania.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1194267&postcount=41 I'm thinking the damper was FUBAR from the beginning...so much for fixing the real problem ;)

You can do it either way. Most guys just bypass (jump) the neutral start switch plug when using an auto harness.

Couple questions: You are using an USDM auto ECU with an auto harness on a manual tranny, correct? You have the A/T neutral start switch bypassed now? If yes to both, I would stick with an auto ECU.

Wrong section for this...thread moved. Take a look at the sticky at the top of this section.

Keep one thing in mind...someone that does not use the search feature demonstrates lack of effort or laziness. If someone like this is not willing to look for the answer before creating a thread, why should someone that knows the answer make the effort to reply. Food for thought.

The TCCS may play games on your mind... ;) Suggest you check the damper...then recheck damper/cam gear/CPS alignment

ECU pin-outs...like this one for the 1990 ;) (gotta let you figure something out) http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=FI&P=31