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140 deg F is too low...the ECU stays in warm-up enrichment until 80 deg C ;)

Same base stock as the other RL oils...polyol ester. It is a thinner oils at start-up (a good thing), but it is also thicker at oils temp. Ester based oils will stay in grade better due to the low amount of VI improvers needed in the formulation. IMO, you really don't need to switch weights...

- Remove TB - Apply appropriate size tap - Screw in same size cap bolt - Done!

Real men hunt pigs with a pistol ;) (.44 mag here) I'd do a quick & dirty sight-in if I were you.

I'd use Win 165 gr ballistic tip vs the power point...much better ballistics. It has no problem with big game...I've harvested 5 elk using that round. If you are hunting deer, the 150 gr Power Shok will be plenty, especially since you are sighted in with it. Shot placement is the most...

You're welcome. You will have to pull the CPS...make sure the cam gears are point straight up at the index and crank index is pointing at zero when you do. Note the position of the CPS (take the cover off before you remove) and make sure it points in the same place when you reinstall...a mark...

Yep, to a minor degree. Could be the CPS O-ring.

I have a great idea since you seem to be hell bent on doing this. DO IT and prove everyone wrong. Otherwise it's time to STFU.

1st - Do you even know what manual tranny you already have? Is it a W58 (NA Supra) or an R154 (Turbo model)? Your profile says W58. 2nd - How much power do you "think" you will be putting down? The R154 can handle it until you are well into the 500 HP range. 3rd - You need to...

Are you sure you are not hearing the sound at the crankcase breather hose behind the alternator? ;)

I've had good results with the Summit Twist-Tite hose/fittings. I've been using it for oil...it is rated for gasoline though. AeroQuip AQP Socketless hose is also quite good.

^^^ The thorough explanation ;) BTW - if you are going to use studs, I highly suggest you chase the block threads with a bottoming tap or thread chaser. As previously stated, the studs go into the block finger tight.

Welcome. You posted in the wrong section...take a look around before you post again. Thread moved.

A good modern conventional oil is good for 5000 miles on a single filter. A Group IV/V synthetic and some Group III synthetic branded oils are good for 8000 miles easy (or longer) with a filter change at 4K. BTW - the coffee filter trick will show big chunks of debris, but it does not tell...

The insurance coughed up $580 ;)

Munky - The 120 ft/lbs is using motor oil for lube...if you do that with moly you will over torque to the point of stud failure (it's a 50% over torque - studs are designed to be torqued to 75% of yield strength). In addition, ARP publishes a max of 75 ft/lbs for use on an aluminum head for...

That's a true statement ;) ARP torque spec for studs is 80 ft/lbs using moly for lube. Do not over torque! It's a really good idea to properly set pre-load by going through 5 tightening/loosening cycles following the TSRM pattern...I go to 75 ft/lbs and set final torque on the 5th cycle.

I will only use Toyota freeze plugs. My experience with Dorman plugs was not good.

The coil pack ground should not have an impact...it does need to be fixed though. Set timing at 10 deg with the diagnostic block jumped. What brand plugs & plug wires and have you tested the wires for resistance? Your AFR looks good to me.

I got a new hatch glass a couple years ago...special order from the dealer, from Japan. It was 1 of 3 left in existence new. Thank god my insurance paid for it.