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LOL...yeah, Bounty was just joking with me. It's all slippery man ;) Giter - The HKS Stopper is the best, no doubt. The most common type for the others, including HKS, are the bead type and are good as well. Cometic will custom make a MHG to whatever thickness you specify. The Titan is...

A Craftsman 14mm 3/8" drive will work and will fit the nut better than the 9/16".

Ditto...All will also fail if the proper prep work is not done. That means having both the block and head surfaced to the RA spec for the MHG used.

RP gear oils have a friction modifier in their formulation. You DO NOT want to run this oil in a R154 or W58 tranny. Your buddy running "big power" doesn't know a lot about gear oil. Take the time to read the 2nd thread link I posted above. If you want your tranny to last, dump that oil...

Might want to consider replacing the timing belt if it's getting long in the tooth. Might as well while you are there. You will have to check/reset timing anyway.

The intro section is not the place to ask questions. For 7M-GE specific questions/problems, use the 7M-GE Tech section. Please pay attention to where you post...please read the stickies in the Intro section. Thread closed.

Hippie - You need to read this: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20163 Vague question = vague answers (or the responses you got) Read the above link and learn how to search: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=64940 Thread closed.

You need the check valve to prevent a boost leak through the ISCV. The ISCVs are the same for both...the check valve in is a recessed area below it.

Red Line 75W-140 is too thick...MT-90 is what you want to use.

Your power steering pump, reservoir, or lines. The CPS has an o-ring around where it inserts into the block...this leak is common.

LAMO! :biglaugh:

That's going to depend on your driving style...if you like to corner hard or take sweeping turns on the fast side, you will see less wear. Tire width and profile has an effect...you will probably see some increased wear, but I don't think it will be excessive. Maybe Nate will chime back in...

Could be in degrees too. If that's the case, it's not that far off from stock (1.25 deg max neg).

This kind of attitude is not going to get you an answer. In fact, it will have the opposite effect. Keep it up and I'll shut this thread down too, plus additional sanctions. You seriously need to read this: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=64940 And this...

IJ did it. Is the 1.7 what's shown on the cam or is that inches? The rear spec is -45' +/- 30'. So the car is set-up for some neg camber already...it helps in the corners. If anything, you will get wear on the inside tire edge.

A1 camber rods: http://shop.a1racing.com/search.aspx?find=supra Or, pull yours and weld in an extension.

ARK Design should be able to at least send you the usual propaganda and something on how it operates. I did notice it has the boost sensor inside the EBC...that would require you to run a rather long vac line inside the cockpit to it.

At least I didn't just tell you to search ;) Since you didn't blow up on me (even after being given a hard time - I can take sarcasm BTW), I take it you are looking for those with experience using that EBC. I'll tell you there's very few folks on here that would have that EBC. It's on the...

Glad to help...here's more: Let me Google that for you

You're welcome...I'll even make it easy for ya, you can even e-mail them: ARK Design Inc. (USA) 13841 West Street Garden Grove, CA 92843, USA Tel: (714) 554-7881 Fax: (714) 554-7886 E-mail: info@arkdesign-us.com