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LOL...I see you found your colored fluid :D Well done!

I have an idea...call them!

A couple of things: 1) Multiple threads asking the same question are not allowed - do not do this again. 2) If you want your questions answered, how about using sentences and decent spelling to describe the problem. 3) Go to the Intro section and read the stickies before you post...

First of all, I am highly suspicious of any lubricant company that does not publish data sheets for their products and says a gear oil is good for all transmissions...there is very little info on BG syncroshift. It appears that Syncroshift is equivalent to GM Syncromesh...read this...

Do not clean the AFM electronics with any carb/MAF/brake cleaner...it will trash it. I think it's time for leak down and compression tests.

No, but a code 52 can cause a misfire.

1) Read the stickies in the Intro section...especially the search tutorial and "Dealing with the Old School guys". 2) If you are too lazy to do any research, we are too lazy to provide an answer. 3) Learn how to spell and write coherent sentences. Thread closed (I'm getting sick of these)

The Felpros are good...I got my replacements at NAPA. Came with the hold down grommets too. Hasn't leaked in 2 1/2 years.

Do some research before you post or this is the kind of answers you will get. Take a look at the Engine Internals/Mechanical section...there's a sticky that will help. Since this is going nowhere, thread closed.

First of all this is the wrong section. Read the intro section stickies before you post again. Might want to use a title that's a little more descriptive. Thread moved to the correct section...Hint: Read the stickies in the 7M-GE Tech section where this thread now resides. And it's a lot...

A re-torque is all you can do without taking the head off.

Yep...I've seen the motors without the BVSV. The line goes straight from the CC to the TB fitting. I assumed the BVSV was on US cars to meet US emissions (car warmed up 1st before vapor is purged from the CC)...could be a bad assumption. Never seen car from the factory without the CC.

If that's the case, I'd be looking for replacements for both if I were you ;) FYI - a JDM Supra canister can be easily tucked away under the passenger wheel well.

Man...I hate this type thread. Especially without pics...it's impossible to say. Kelly Blue Book is a good place to start and go from there. On that note: Thread closed

You have a lot to learn about SM...looks like it's going to be the hard way ;) Suggest you think about it before you post again.

7M-GE specific questions belong in the 7M-GE Tech Section. Please pay attention where you post. Thread Moved.

Since when does a 1JZ swap question belong in the General Section? Please pay attention to where you post...1st (and last) warning. Thread moved.

Bzzzzz...WRONG! Stock head bolts are not torque to yield. If you look in the TSRM, they are not marked for replacement when removed. They have been tested by Reg Reimer for torque at 68-72 ft/lbs. The 7M bolts are identical material to the 2JZ head bolts and have a yield strength of 147,000...

The Reference section is not the place to ask questions...please pay attention to where you post. Thread moved.

How to set timing (click me) Pay attention to the part where you jump the diagnostic block ;) A code 14 points at the igniter or it's circuit...I would start by making sure the igniter is properly grounded. http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=52217