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http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/TechTips/vacuum_gauge_readings.aspx

Running an upgraded CT26, you'll be fine...the best useful boost you'll get out of that is 14-16 psi. Keep in mind, you'll need a Lex AFM or some sort of fuel control (or both) to run those 550's...it all depends on how you tune as to how long a OEM HG will last.

A piece of advice: tight budget and Mk III Supra do not belong in the same sentence ;) If you want to buy a turbo, the place to ask is in the Mk III WTB section. There's quite a few section on SM, pay attention to where you post subject wise.

Keep something in mind, your time has value ;) Replacing the other seals and a timing belt is easy while you have everything off to replace the main seal. And, it's not that expensive...we're talking about 3 more additional seals and a timing belt. It's the mileage on the belt that...

Teal - The TSRM max allowed warpage is: Head - 0.0039" Block - 0.0020" Implying both can be machined out to produce a flat surface, otherwise it says to replace the head/block. That would be the most I would remove, but would still try to get it back as close as possible to the stock...

No...the stock HG is 1.37mm compressed. You took off 0.5mm, requiring a HG 1.87mm thick...2.0mm will reduce compression slightly, but will also allow a higher boost level (with a proper tune). The 1.2mm HG actually raised compression...what you perceive for low end now is probably correct...

It is the Turbonetics ;) HP Freaks has one for the 5M, but not the 7M...it's $700.

If you can find one ;) It's still a T4 flange and would require an adapter for the CT26...the downpipe length would likely need adjustment as well.

^^^ You've been reading ;) I prefer the Toyota OEM HG, but a lot of guys are using the Felpro with success. I'm sure a Cometic composite HG would also be a quality gasket. Both Toyota and Felpro have head kits that include all the gaskets/seals you will need to replace. Don't use the...

You are not going to be able to tell just by looking down a tiny hole at the piston top. :3d_frown:

Both front and rear will align for camber & toe...no excessive wear. I do have it aligned at near the TSRM max for neg camber to improve performance in the turns.

I do...Koni shocks though ;)

From what I've seen, Eibachs don't cause this problem.

Ahem...it's IJ, not 1J ;) He suggested you cut those at a 45 deg angle, then weld for a reason :nono:

They are not shorter.

Might want to turn the rotors too ;) (that is if there's enough left)

It could be the rubber in the crank damper is twisted. Do this: - Remove the #1 plug and insert a small diameter wooden dowel about a foot long in the spark plug hole - Rotate the crank to the zero index...pass it by a few inches. - Note where the dowel peaks...that is true TDC for the...

Not without serious modification ;)

It's there, unless someone cut it off. In that case, look for a yellow wire with a black stripe. BTW - the ECU also senses oil pressure.

Yes it will...the boost circuit is not required for the rest of the cluster to work and it provides no input to the ECU. You will have to switch the turbo tach into the non-turbo cluster...the NA tach will not work with a turbo igniter without modification. Not 100% sure, but the speedo on...