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This one is...an excellent illustration of how "oil myths" get started and then somehow become "fact".

No, not going to happen ;) If your rings are good, a valve job will do a nice refresh for the motor.

Of course! I change all the fluids. I was just throwing that out there concerning GC (or any other PAO or ester based oil). If I knew the guy I bought the car from, I'd be more likely to trust them.

Now that you cleared codes and ran it, did you recheck for codes again? I saw your sensor thread...you sure the ECU coolant sensor is connected correctly? How old are the plugs & wires? Which NGK plugs are you using? The reason it's going past 3K RPM is you (kinda) fixed the cracked...

Once you do that, you will need to get a head gasket kit and replace all the gaskets (including the HG) and seals. Basically you are doing a HG job. Depending on the condition of the head it might be time to consider a valve job as well while it is off.

Not only that, but those hoses are right above the exhaust manifold. I'd use the best hose you can get for that area and use something like this over it: http://www.thermotec.com/thermo-sleeve.html

Fredde - Yes, take the sharp edge off the squish. Same for the top of each cylinder.

This is what I do...close enough. When you have a remote filter, larger cooler, etc the fill quanity in the TSRM is no longer valid. You can run GC 8,000 miles easy with a filter change at 4K. I've seen it go twice that when analysis was used to determine TBN. Lewis - Keep in mind he's...

Do not create another thread asking about this problem...you can bump this thread once in a 24 hour period. IAT = Intake Air Temp...the sensor is in the AFM electronics module. IAT is one of the parameters the ECU used to determine injector duration. With an IAT sensor or circuit failure...

That is correct...Total Seal gapless rings. Sorry, should have been more specific.

IAT sensor...it's in the AFM and is one of the fail safe codes. The ECU substitutes 20 deg C for the temp used in it's calculations. Before you ask...it should not cause your problem by itself. Did you replace the TB connector and the accordion hose yet?

Big difference between 4-500 HP and 7-900 HP ;)

Exactly! You might be able to put some big numbers down on the dyno, but you're not going to be able to drive it on the street well at all. The costs of building a motor like this and not using an EMS that can run it worth a damn doesn't add up.

Adequate is a good way to put it. ;) You don't think you're going to have traction problems at 900 HP? You guys kill me...have you ever driven a car putting down 900 HP? You think you can just whip one up and drive it on the street with no issues? Compare to a Motec or an AEM yourself...if...

After you clean it, add some UV dye to the oil and PS and run for a day. Shining a UV light on the engine (needs to be dark outside) will point straight at it.

Think about it for a minute...a top power motor on the cheapest (and one of the least capable) EMS's out there. I'm not saying the Stinger is bad, I'm saying why would you use this EMS to control a motor that is going to be very, very expensive to build...you need the best EMS (Motec) that's...

Don't use Total Seal rings...they are too hard and have seal issues on this motor.

I've had this laying around for years...I put it in the Articles section ;)

Check your main harness in the EGR area...mine got melted through and shorted out there, popping the gauge fuse just like you. If that is not it (a ground won't be either), plug a 12V light bulb into the gauge fuse holder and start tracing (+) wires...if it goes bright, you found it.

Yep - I have Pauters myself...nice rods ;)