GM recommends DexCool...it's OAT inhibitor technology, but you'll never catch me using it. If air or certain contaminant's get into the system, the result is a goo that clogs up the rad (and everything else). In addition, DexCool contains 2-EHA which is bad (as in destroys) certain type gasket...
Not going to argue with you Nash...you are well known for "fixes" like this, so there is no point.
It's not ok to introduce air at idle at any other source than the ISCV path on the stock TCCS...every Toyota tech article I've seen backs me up on this. I've seen the results 1st hand too...
Because then you will have a high idle all the time, which the ECU (via the ISCV) will attempt to correct. You should never crack the TB plate with the adjustment screw or open the air bypass screw on the early (pre '89) TBs. You will eventually cause the ISCV to completely close and lose the...
There's a piece that connects to the tranny...cable inside a hard elbow where the flex cable connects from the dash. You can disconnect the cable from there and turn with an electric drill.
That is within the normal ops range (176-212 deg F).
A sticking T-stat will cause the gauge behavior you describe. Replace the stat and test it's opening temp in a pot of hot-boiling water before you install...use a Toyota OEM or a Stant SuperStat rated at 190 deg (since you are in a hot...
If you are going to upgrade your cooler circuit (and eliminate the stock filter head pressure bleed), you want to do it like this:
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=62838
That said, your mechanic is an idiot...I'd get a new one ;)
This is what you really want to do for a remote oil filter/cooler circuit upgrade:
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=62838
The block thread is 20x1.5mm...the NA filter stud Ian speaks of is 20x1.5mm on the block side and 3/4x16 on the filter side. On the GTE filter head...
If the shoe fits ;)
Look...it gets really old that guys (like you) come on here and say "I'm doing it, so it's good". No background, no facts, no clue about what they are actually doing...just pure opinion with nothing to back it up. Hence the sarcastic "genius" term...it's quite...
Ummm...no you didn't. I would NEVER recommend ANYONE use RP gear oil in their tranny. That link I posted (over 2 years ago) proves it...if you would have taken the time to read it - or - take the time to read the tech info on the RP data sheets you would know that ALL RP gear oil contains...
Bzzzzz...wrong! The tranny had nothing to do with it.
Turbo cars for a given year had the same LSD (and ratio). The NA cars were different (open diff and higher ratio), but could come with an LSD if equipped with the sport package.
For an LSD, Ford 75W-90 is the best bet for a differential with a lot of miles on it...get the Ford friction modifier and start with 1 oz. You my have to add more like Grim did.
If you want to go with the Red Line gear oil, you want to either:
- Get 75W-90 NS and the Red Line friction...
I wouldn't run any of the RP gear oils in either a R154 or W58 and I would get it out of there before it causes your synchos to glaze...MT-90 is a excellent choice for a car putting out higher HP. MTL is good for most stock or lightly mod'ed cars.
Fine for the LSD...not good for the tranny due to the friction modifiers (for the reason stated above) that are in it. Read this (All of it, but especially post #7):
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=44485
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.