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When talking about the 1:1 FP rise with boost, you have to talk about FP with vac on. The Aeromotive AFPR controls FP (it is 1:1)...the rest of the mods you listed is irrelevant when it comes to the FP rise ratio. This statement/question: Is comparing an apple to an orange...since the...

And you get to deal with issues like this. It's the MBC/WG combination + the turbo + the manifold + the DP you are running. Unless "many other out there running the same stuff" have the exact set-up, lag may or may not be a problem. You simply can't make that statement and it be true.

We might have a better idea if we knew what fuse it was and in what junction box vs "a 30 amp fuse that controls the spark or fuel"...the fuses are labeled ;) I can pretty much assure you it's not because of the engine going into boost.

You heard wrong or this tuner doesn't have a clue...especially since Brad uses meth injection and does not mix alcohol in the tank. If you want to use methanol or ethanol as an octane booster as you described, you better be thinking about what it does to the fuel system. The formula Grim...

I'm pretty sure you and the OP are in the same boat ;)

Yep! Part of the reason I prefer diesel as a solvent. Kerosene: 100-162 °F Diesel: 126-204 °F Either will leave an oily residue as stated earlier...I'll sit the part out in the AZ sun for a couple hours and it's not a problem. ;)

And when you point it out to them you become the world's biggest dickhead...then the entire "genius" crowd jumps on the band wagon.

Using the stock wiring to trigger separate relays on two different FP circuits would fix that ;)

You want to change the seals...unless you want blue smoke on start-up. Pics of the valves? (might be time for a valve job)

Kerosene or diesel fuel...there are also specific solvents for parts washers. Diesel works very well. Remove the vac valve. Solvent inside the pump is not going to be a problem, but I would pour some ATF inside the hole and turn the pump a few times to flush it.

I had an ETC go bad and it was acting a lot like this ;)

It's a old inside joke actually ;) Bitron is not something you want in your LSD or any other engine/drivetrain part. Do a search on it and you will see why. Brad - an thicker oil may help, but it sounds like something is off in your LSD. Are you running Red Line 75W-90? (it's one...

A lot of aftermarket stock rads have plastic tanks...OEM is metal. Rubber needs to be between the support and the car's frame to prevent grounding....through bolts on the support to the rad will provide a ground path.

You should be able to set idle directly with the AEM...speed density is the way to go and should eliminate this problem.

The system will work without the PCV valve if it's plumbed correctly...the valve simply helps put full vac on the cam cover ports by preventing flow from the accordion hose. You need to figure out where it's leaking 1st...if it's from the head seals, no too likely the PCV is the cause.

A PCV valve is a check valve...just blow through it to determine flow direction. On the accordion hose side, you want flow toward the accordion hose.

Might want to check it for flatness...if it's out of TSRM spec it will need to be decked anyway.

:rolleyes: Were you able to adjust pressure with this gauge? Could be a bad aeromotive gauge you got.

General is not the place for this...moved to the CA regional section.

Small leak + enough pressure, yes it would. Just not very well.