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You need to read this thread...seriously: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=64940

Remove all the rivets and the layers of a MHG will separate...clean both sides of each layer (keep them in order). When you install coat both sides of the bottom layer and lay it on the block with the index pins as a guide. Do the same thing for the remaining layers in order.

It looks like that front rivet is touching in the 3-5 o'clock position.

Doesn't really matter what everyone "thinks"...the old Viton has to be removed or it will not seal, regardless of how the old Viton "looks". That includes between the layers and it will have to be sprayed with copper sealer (between layers too) to replace the Viton. Sorry, but you are going to...

In that case, I would start by looking at the FP up VSV, EGR VSV, O2 and ISCV wiring. The wiring to +B in the diagnostic block too. The circuit opening relay wiring path to the EFI main relay is suspect as well.

Dude - Read what you wrote (.28)...that's over a quarter inch. I said 0.028"...big difference with the zero behind the decimal. I was busting your chops a bit ;)

^^^ Damn! Had to break out the translator to read that post. just90gs - In any case, this is the wrong section for this. Please pay attention to where you post. Thread moved to correct section. Start by reading the stickies in this section.

Like I said, it's not exact. Old coils vs new coils...cylinder compression...spark plug wires...etc all have an impact and once the mods begin, each car becomes more different from another. You just have to try it out and adjust...in general, the more boost you run, the more narrow the gap (to...

With that plug, I'd gap it at 0.028" and give it a try. Every engine is different when increasing boost...you are not going to get an exact answer (but lots of opinions though :D)

The deal is if you run more boost the gap needs to narrow from stock (per above) a bit to prevent spark blowout.

You don't have a brake booster sucking off a boat load of vacuum feeding the vac manifold. The boost controller and gauge should have their own dedicated vac source.

Can't help if you don't answer.

Route the gauge and boost sensor straight to a dedicated port on the intake manifold.

Check the harness in the area of the EGR valve.

Here's a link to another forum with pics of dissected oil filter showing their construction...seems there's another lunatic running around that cuts open filters ;) Oil Filters - Dissected

A very good description on filter efficiency and what filter Beta (β) means.

LOL...you are kidding right? I'll give you a hint: It's within the margin of error for a dyno ;) With a stock CAT back exhaust, likely zero. Another useless thread closed.

Nope...you described a series connection. Connect the coolers together with a line in between and a "T" in the middle of each line. Connect the output line from the T-stat to one T and the return to the other T. This will feed both coolers at the same time.

If you use 2 coolers make sure they are plumbed in parallel with the T-stat in the same part of the circuit feeding both coolers. I would swap out the oil cooler before going with electric radiator fans.

The 7M AFM is a Karmen Vortex...the motor will start with it unplugged and it can be driven, but it will not run well at all. What did you clean the AFM with? Just the housing or did you clean the electronics inside too?