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A bad AFM or it's circuit. Did you clean the AFM by chance or do any mod to anything in that area? Did you recheck the wiring to the SAFC?

Previous post...I anticipated the question ;)

Take a look at the TEWD power source for the EFI fuse: http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=33 Is the starter anywhere in it? Does the fuse blow when the ignition is turned on? Plugging a 12V light into the EFI fuse holder with a short will illuminate the...

Efficiency wise, a big difference...the 7M oil cooler is adequate at best for a stock motor. It is better than nothing though. Keep in mind the whole purpose of an oil cooler is to keep the oil at 100 deg C (it's spec'ed ops temp)...when temps go higher than this, oil viscosity drops pretty...

Looks good. I hope you never pop the coolant hose at the back of the head that's under it ;)

Auto tranny...on a stock A340E set-up the ATF (automatic transmission fluid) is cooled by the radiator. From what I know about the 1JZ hydrofan, the cooler is necessary. It makes sense that not using one will increase the radiator thermal load as well. The 7M oil coolers are adequate, but...

Yep, oil will do that...pull the plugs, clean and gap to 0.028" to 0.030". I hope it's not too late for the rings to seat :(

Personally, I think the oil/coolant circuit is inadequate for a turbo motor on a stock size radiator. It's likely your coolant system is fine (assuming you're not overheating), but the additional oil thermal load is exceeding radiator thermal capacity. I run an auto tranny and switched the ATF...

What kind of spark plugs? Fram will be ok for the next couple oil changes, but overall Fram is one of the worst filters you can buy. Even the WalMart SuperTech filters are superior. Read this: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=42763 It's really, really important you do...

Read my previous post...did an edit ;) You do not want to use a synthetic oil for break in...it is way too "slick". The rings will never seat if you do. BTW - there's a lot of good info in the Lube section.

Cruising speeds do not put enough vacuum on the rings. The method I suggested subject the rings to higher RPM and pressure forces the rings into the cylinder wall. Under deceleration vac, the rings are pulled in the opposite direction. The combination seats the rings very quickly, but it has...

First...what brand and grade oil do you have in it? Not yet...take the car out (before driving it any more) and make 4-5 aggressive runs to 4000 RPM plus. Let the car coast down in gear, down shifting through the gears. Afterward, drive the car normally...don't baby it. For the next 1000...

Need to redo your math...104 deg C = 219 deg F ;) The TCCS' of this era usually pull timing at temps over 100 deg C (212 deg F). Short answer, the temps you show are too hot. Either upgrade radiator capacity or switch to an oil/air cooler. Running pure water in the coolant system is not...

WTF is "oil suction"? Teed - did you clean the PCV orifice on the TB? Was the turbo rebuilt? Might want to do a compression test just to rule that out.

I'm betting the coolant temps are up there too...the radiator needs to have excess thermal capacity for an oil/coolant cooler to work effectively. Might be time to get the oil on a separate circuit.

Sounds like they have not seated yet...how many miles on them? You been going easy on the engine or did you do a hard break-in?

Well, I'll be damn ;) I honestly didn't think it could be done in any reasonable amount of time. That is an innovative way of getting the valve back in place. Nicely done! Jeff - Why don't you go here and post a detailed set of instructions on how to do this...

It is usually the lower cable that breaks....to find out, just disconnect the upper cable and turn it with a drill. If the speedo works, it's the lower cable. To lube the cable, do the same thing and drip some oil inside while holding the end up high.

If the pump went out, it's not because of the Lex/550 combo. You can put a 12V light on the fuse holder terminals and start checking wires with the power on...unplug the ECU. If the light goes bright you found the wire. Did you remove the box from it's mounting and have a look under it?

In this case, that would be you ;) OP = original poster.