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Test the actuator per the TSRM. Check for a boost leak.

Look at it like this: - The pads are the same size - 4 pistons will lock up the rotor - 6 pistons will lock up the rotor Who cares about clamping force of 4 vs 6? ;) I'm pretty sure Andy has one designed to work with his brakes...you will need it on a non-ABS car to get your bias dead on.

The 6 piston is a superior caliper with differential bores iirc. They provide a different lead bite on the pad vs the 4 piston to reduce wear and squeaking. You do realize the 6 and 4 piston calipers use the same pad, so don't expect any additional stopping power out of the 6 piston version...

I've been to Andy's house and had a look at some of the design drawings...he was working on the rears with the parking brake option at the time iirc. We talked a while about the kits...Andy has put a lot of effort into making these match up with the MK III. Specifically the master cylinder...

The 6 pots are waaayyy overkill IMO. ;)

It is off topic in that thread...you should know better. Ummm...Andy is an engineer. He designed the front & rears as a set using the highest quality materials. He's tested them as well, however, I am not sure about a non-ABS car.

Mine's not stock either....the stock fan is still what you want to run, especially on a built motor. If you are running the stock ECU, you still want a 190 deg tstat...that is unless you want to run rich. Moshimoto rad? IMO, you get what you pay for.

I have a CSF dual core radiator...Zyrex G05 coolant. The stock fan is good for most street cars. Toyota OEM or Stant SuperStat...190 deg F.

I was...it's specifically made to remove carbon from piston tops and valves. Makes it a lot easier. I wouldn't use sandpaper on a block deck...ever.

Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaner :)

Pics no workie.

The only reason it might sound like a stupid question is how can I possibily know what you're talking about? I know a bit about oil, but I can't read minds ;) You need to be more specific...brand, product name, available weights, where is it sold. A data sheet from the manufacturer site...

I've used The Right Stuff on several oil and tranny pans...Nada on any leaks. It's convenience is it's in a pressurized can a lot like what you see with Cheeze Wiz...you push on the nozzle and a nice bead comes out.

^^^ You definitely want to do that. Toyota Red is good...however, Zyrex G05 is the best IMO. Mix either 50/50 with distilled water. I would stay away from the usual green stuff (i.e. what you likely got at Advance Auto) Make sure you run a stock temp (190 deg F) thermostat...either OEM...

/\ Me either ;) Carter - the 3Bond IJ speaks of is available at motorcycle (Suzuki & Yamaha) dealers. Toyota FPIG is very good and have used Permatex The Right Stuff with excellent results.

And this question belongs in the 7M-GTE Tech section (specific to turbo cars)? Thread moved to General...please pay attention to where you post.

A torx is a good solution. Did you take the cam out on that side? Might make it easier.

Using ARPs it would also be wise to have the big ends resized (with them installed) to set proper bearing clearance spec.

Just so long there is no metal connection (including a bolt) between the frame and the rad that would provide a grounding source.

Rubber on the bottom rad support as well? That's what I thought, just wanted to be sure...it should work the same as stock.