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Describe the hose routing from the T at the TB. What IJ is getting at is those brackets are grounding the rad to the frame...not good. Ever heard of galvanic corrosion? What you've done is turn your rad into a sacrificial anode. The stock brackets and lower support are rubber for a...

LOL...took the words right out of my mouth Chris! Isn't burning up one motor enough ;) He doesn't like that radiator and wants to make it leak ;)

One question: The T you have between the hardline and the TB, does it route over to the PS reservoir side of the catch cans? (looks like it does)

I think you will be pleased with the way that oil performs ;) It will last 8,000 miles easily...I would change the filter at 4K though and add make-up oil. If anyone hasn't told you, you want to fill a quart above the top mark on the dipstick...call it insurance.

When you say "I got it running rich with it", exactly how rich at 3000 RPM to WOT. What is cruise (off boost) AFR? Have you tested the wastegate actuator for proper operation? And, confirmed it's not shimmed?

Hint: Changing spark plugs is not going to fix it ;) I would start by testing the O2 sensor, the ECU coolant temp sensor and fuel pressure.

Not familiar with that one. I was actually referring to the Aeromotive knockoffs you see sold on eBay...the diaphragm is crap, but you can fix it by ordering an Aeromotive replacement from Summit. It sounds like the SX one you have is not giving you the proper drop...maybe someone will chime...

I guess there's no way the J tube can affect fuel pressure then ;) Is this a stock FRP as well? If not, exactly what kind? (is it a Chinese copy)

Ok, I'm confused...is the line from the FPR connected to the J tube?

It's not normal...pressure should drop into the "vac on" range I posted. Did you drill out or remove the J tube?

As mentioned, you need to focus on flow vs pressure...as long as pressure is within TSRM limits, you have all the pressure you need on a stock motor. If the oil pump is providing the TSRM pressure, you don't need to worry about it. Pay attention to the above post by deabionni...GC is not a...

Thanks ark ;) On that note, this thread is closed...we have enough catch can threads.

Zyrex G05 is an excellent choice as well...better than Toyota Red IMO.

There is a wonderful communication device that's available: The Telephone!

Hitting boost cut at 17 psi on the Lex/550 combo is about right...I hit it at 18 psi. When winter comes around with lower OATs, you will hit boost cut at a lower psi.

Nah...just an irritating parasite :D

Plumb it after the TB plate...you will need an additional PCV valve in the line connecting to the intake manifold that allows flow only in the direction to the manifold. Otherwise you will have a boost leak.

Cobbeh - SupraCentral pretty much covered it...you have a bit of reading to do. ;) I like Castrol European Formula 0W-30...it says "Made in Germany" on the back (aka - German Castrol). Don't make the assumption this is a thin oil...at ops temp it is one of the thickest there is for a 30W...

LOL...now that's cheap ;) Keep something in mind about the radiator supports, they are made out of rubber for a reason and it's not shock isolation. If you get even a small electric current, the coolant acts as an electrolyte and turns the rad into a sacrificial anode.

The aluminum caps get pretty hot...think about that when you go to add oil on a hot motor ;)